S2000 Forced Induction S2000 Turbocharging and S2000 supercharging, for that extra kick.

Looking for more power now..LOL

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Old May 9, 2010 | 06:32 PM
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Default Looking for more power now..LOL

Cliff notes found at the bottom of the page.

Well after racing a couple friends and having gone to the track.. I've come to the conclusion that... I need more power. For pump gas.
Its a never ending hunger for power.
Track/Street vids: https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=787570

Well I got tuned a while back on 14psi creeping to 15/16psi and made 412whp on a Mustang dyno.

Now I'm looking for the best way to make even more power while retaining the stock motor/compression. And still run pump 93 octane.

My List of mods are:
Stock F20C with 59xxx miles on it.
Mase Engineering Turbo Kit w/ 6262 Turbo
Full 3" exhaust
Walbro Fuel Pump
1000cc ID injectors
93 Octane

The WG spring is a .5 bar (so about 7-8psi) so at 14psi, that spring is pretty much maxed out.

I don't really want to run water/meth injection.

The 6262 turbo has the .63 A/R exhaust side, the tuner did mention that this could be choking it up a bit due to the higher compression. Upgrading to a bigger hot side would result in a bit more lag, but would I have much power benefits from this?

Am I pretty much at the limits of 93 octane already?
I was thinking something along the lines of upping the spring(s) on the WG to safely run more boost and running dual fuel pumps, maybe a Full Blown Fuel setup?
Would this help me make any more power, or is the car basically at its limit for 93 octane?

Another idea I had was to send the head out for a port/polish. I already have my Supertech valvetrain ready to be installed, just haven't bought new valve seals yet. So along with sending the head off to porting, I'd have the new valvetrain installed and seated.

I'll be going with T1 Race Development this time around for tuning. Not that I'm unhappy with the current tune/tuner, I just feel that Tony @ T1 can do better.
Also a dynojet reads much higher.. who doesn't want higher numbers? haha jk jk
Sorry for the long post.

Cliffs: Looking for the next best thing for power on 93 octane. Open for ideas.
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Old May 9, 2010 | 06:46 PM
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Definitely go up to the .82 A/R housing. Mine is fully spooled to 27-28 psi by 5100 rpm. That .63 A/R housing is definitely causing some hp losses up top. You should be able to make (with the .82 A/R housing) at least 490 whp at around 17-18 psi on 93 octane safely.

Dont port and polish the head, waste of money. The stock head flows very well and port and polishing it could make it worse. There is a fine line with doing this to our heads and you could mess it up easily. Just have the Supertech stuff installed and call it a day.

With what you have, you dont need the FB dual pump setup. Just rewire the Walbro pump you have with a relay and to direct battery power.
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Old May 9, 2010 | 06:59 PM
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Safely is a very relative term on pumpgas imo. Be very careful or go for a more quality-stable fuel is my advice.
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Old May 9, 2010 | 07:39 PM
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I would defiantly agree with going to a 0.82 Hot side.

The waste gate spring is nowhere near maxed out, you will have to get to 25 or 30 PSI before that will be a problem.

Unless you go with Ethanol then you will not even be close to maxing out the fuel system. Then you will also need to get new lines, ID2200, a new regulator and possibly a new rail.

A cutout would also be a bit of an upgrade, I would highly recommend a boost actuated cutout if you go that route.

Really most of the above will only net small gains you really only need to lower the compression and or up the octance point if you want more.
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Old May 9, 2010 | 07:45 PM
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Turn up da boost.
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Old May 9, 2010 | 08:00 PM
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1. Install my valvetrain
2. Upgrade hot side
3. Rewire the fuel pump (planned on it anyway)
4. Retune for pump and a tune on some Q for the track

I guess the things I had in mind were about the only things I could do lol.

Also I guess my memory has failed me? For some reason I remember hearing/reading that the WG spring can hold 2x what its rated (7psi holds 14) before it starts to spike/creep. Can somebody clear that up? Whats the proper conversions for the WG springs? * Runs off to google*
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Old May 9, 2010 | 08:20 PM
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Andrew, if you are not getting steady boost levels alter the boost duty cycle map per RPM.

on a 7 psi spring, ive been able to get 25 psi boost levels.

the only thing that will gain you more power really is going to a .82 back housing, but you will notice the added lag. and realistically it probably wont add that much more power at that boost level...

dont touch the ports.

if it was me, id run e85

Email me if you need anything.

Mase
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Old May 9, 2010 | 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by MaseEngineering,May 9 2010, 08:20 PM
Andrew, if you are not getting steady boost levels alter the boost duty cycle map per RPM.

on a 7 psi spring, ive been able to get 25 psi boost levels.

the only thing that will gain you more power really is going to a .82 back housing, but you will notice the added lag. and realistically it probably wont add that much more power at that boost level...

dont touch the ports.

if it was me, id run e85

Email me if you need anything.

Mase
I did email you a while back, but never got a reply Lol.
It was just to say whats up though. Nothing special.

NO e85 stations around me, or i'd be on it like flies on crap.

I'll be emailing you sometime soon for help on messing with the boost duty cycle. I dont want to do something wrong and blow my car up.
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