Hey just replaced my valve springs with dual springs and put in titanium retainers to protect against the AP1 retainer cracking problem. Did a full spec valve adjustment and the valves are incredibly loud under 3K RPM but then dont hear a peep at any higher revs. I took it all apart and loosened then all a little bit and put it back together, same exact problem.

Does that noise usually mean too loose or too tight? When i pulled it off a couple seemed to be a little tight which is what i thought the problem was. The last adjustment a was generous with the no-go gauge but it did still had resistance. Could it be the new springs with the stock cams? They are science of speed and are supposed to work with stock cams, or maybe they need to be tighter? Just getting tired of pulling my valve cover off over and over again.

Thanks

Dex

 

Loud usually means a loose valve adjustment...
What adjustment did you do?
Did you use the feeler on the top of the valve stem?

 

maybe the ones that seemed tight were right and the others were the problem. I did the intake with the .008 and .010 exhaust with .010 and .011

did not use a feeler gauge on the top of the stem, never heard of that how does it work?

 

yes sorry dumb comment, feeler gauge between top of valve stem and bottom of rocker

 

Then you used the right clearances and put the feelers in the right spot.

Do you have aftermarket injectors?
I have the injector dynamics 1000's and they are loud as hell! (like most aftermarket injectors)

 

I do have aftermarket injectors but they are the same that were in there when i put the turbo on and it didn't do it.

Just pulled everything back apart again and did another adjustment where the go gauge had a little resistance and the no-go would not fit in at all, so a little tighter....same problem, very loud under 3K goes away and stays gone through rest of rpm range.

Seems like it must be something to do with the new springs but it is pretty loud and annoying. I hope the solution isn't to turn the radio up : )

 

After my valve train rebuild I have had to adjust the valves a few times. Eventually everything was broke in and I did not have to mess with it again.

I would highly recommend getting a 10mm valve adjustment tool and a good set of stainless feeler gauges. As you know having the right tools will make or break a job not just make it more convenient.

Tip 1: Remove the spark plugs and place a rag between the fire wall and the back passenger side of the head. Oil like to run out there and it always makes a big mess.

Tip 2: Make sure the elliptical portion of the cam lobe is point upward away from the valve at a 90deg angle. I adjust one set of valves at a time ie Intake on #1 cylinder, then slightly rotate (it only take a few degrees) the crank to get the exhaust valves on corresponding cylinder which I believe is #3 but don’t quote me.

Tip 3: Place your feeler gauge between the valve stem and rocker and tighten the set screw with light pressure then lock the jam nut. Take the feeler gauge out and check that there is a small amount of resistance when moving the feeler gauge between the valve and rocker.

Tip 4: After you adjust all of the valves, recheck the torque on all of the lock nuts then rotate the motor 2-3 revolutions by hand and recheck all of the clearances.

Tip 5: Use a Go no Go approach to checking the valves, by this I mean that if you are looking for no more than 0.010” clearance it you can get a 0.011” feeler to go in at all you need to readjust.

 

^^This is pretty much how I did mine after my Supertech head build and my valvetrain is whisper quiet. If everything is adjusted perfectly, yours should also be whisper quiet. If you have the Helms manual, follow it to a T and adjust your valves to the tight side of the spectrum as I did. It will give the best "lift" on the valves to open them up the most for the best flow of air. Also, did you put some good assembly lube on top of the valve stems, where the rockers ride, to ensure good lubrication on startup from the head build? I hope you didnt scare a rocker or valve stem.

Are you sure its not the TCT making noise?

 

Ya I say TCT. Take it out and do the Billman mod with some sandpaper.

 

i felt like i did the adjustment to the specs on the tight side like you said but im going to get the tool and try it all again i guess, that seems to be the only variable im missing. I lubed everything with fresh oil before starting it; i changed the oil and added new oil with the valve cover off and ran all the oil over all of the parts.

Dumb question....Whats a TCT?