Anyone ordering one of these? Can someone help me get one? They only ship US and Canada.

 

Wayne,
The silver adapter should be BSP; If not than I am going to give my supplier an earfull because of shipping prices to you. I know I had 3 bad ones back in February, I replaced those and was reassured that these were the proper thread/pitch...

 

you may already now this but i figured i'd add a little detail.
A "BSP" may refer to a tapered or parralell thread but in your case it should be a tapered thread on the adapter, the 1/8" bsp size has 28 threads per inch (tapered or parallell), vs the 27 threads per inch of the 1/8" npt, becuse we are talking tapered threads that seal by interference, they will both technically seal with each other (given enough torque) the difference being using the correct pitch (ie bsp with bsp) will not damage the threads as much, and can be removed and re-applied more times before the threads are fubar. the only problem I see is it may be a little hard to tell the difference between 27 and 28 Threads per inch. and unless you have a good feel for how many clean turns you will get before it starts to bind.

 

I had the same problem when I got my oil feed line (from hondatech).
The silver adapter did not fit, so I assumed it was the wrong pitch and purchased the tunertoys one.
I may have just got a bad one also, but the fitting did not work for me at all.

 

Can anyone tell me if I got it right?This guy has done it the same way on a SC S more than a year back and no problems so far...

 

The silver adaptor does appear to have a tapered threaded section so I assume it is BSP.

Jakub - Keep in mind that Comptech SCs return via the oil drain at the bottom of the sump without problem. I've heard that as a turbo relies on the oil for some of it's cooling it's flow requirement is higher. Hence it's better to return above the oil level.

The F20C is a bit unusual in that it uses a ladder frame for the crank caps rather than individual caps. As such the skirt is deeper and the sump shorter. I guess it would be good to return oil via the skirt but I think there have been enough examples returning via the top of the sumpt to prove that it is ok.

 

here is some oil return according love fab (sump)




and for other turbo kit it here

 

You can do whatever; but if you ever have to return the car to stock, replacing the sump is ALOT cheaper than replacing the skirt(complete engine tear-down). Or, if you up the install by any chance, etc. In the other Hondas, the sump is where its always been, and with 12,000 miles on my car, I have yet to have problems.

Plus, core Sump exchanges on my end(which will begin rather soon), is ALOT easier to do with sumps rather than skirts

This way, with the sump and test-pipe, the kit is truly bolt-on(and then go to the tuner).

 

 

Alright

So for the slow guy, Which is me, which of the two pictures do you suggest? Top or bottom? And if it is the top one you want it down low where the black spot it? Seems like a bad spot being on the bottom on the pan right?


Thanks

J. R.