To meth or not to meth?
What I think is a great idea, is to add the METH kit after the tune, and use the smallest nozzle to inject 100% distilled water. If it fails, no KABOOOM, and as it works it will spray just a little bit to help keep the intake charge cool
Thanks for the more input everyone, Yes the novi1000 is week but I'm confident it will meet my goals for now. I will be happy with 400 for a while. I've been at 300 for about 5 years. Maybe in 2 or 3 years I'll go novi1200 or even turbo 
Joey, I like the idea of using it to further cool the intake charge. I may just do that, thanks

Joey, I like the idea of using it to further cool the intake charge. I may just do that, thanks
Being you’re on a 10:1 comp motor, detonation isn’t going to be a limiting determining factor, not that it really was at the oem 11:1 with just a novi1000 at max impeller speed. So now your challenge is going to be touching your goal of 400whp. Since you lost a point of compression, your going to need to make up that lost power somehow. More timing in your tune is going to be the angle you’re going to want to look at, as well as additional cooling. Is water meth necessary with your set up? Not at all. Will you gain more power and have a better chance at reaching your goal? Absolutely.
Water/meth is a science and an art, just like any other tuning, but it has its own set of rules. I suggest you read up on it and get familiar with the different kind of configurations at your disposal and decide how you want to use it. Its something I fully believe in, but its important to understand it yourself, or find a trusting tuner that does, or risk being disappointed. I’m convinced that those who go out of there way to poo poo it, never took the time to fully understand what it can ant cant offer them.
Just a tip, I would strongly recommend staying away from a 'progressive' pump injection kit such as the one AEM offers, for your SC set up. In theory it’s a neat idea, but in my experience it does not deliver safe and consistent injection due to the design. Its design is for the injection pump to spool up and make pressure before injection, when the desired psi is triggered, on a non turbo set up where there is no boost lag/spool up, it creates a delay in injection and erratic lean conditions. I recommend what I use, which is a solenoid controlled injection which has 100% pressure from a recalculating pump that runs all the time, when injection is called for, it instantly delivers 100% pressure and flow. This is more reliable, safer and easier to tune. You can make your own kit for about 2/3 the price as well. Otherwise shop for a single stage, non progressive kit through one of the several companies out there, Devils own, snow performance, to name a few.
Water/meth is a science and an art, just like any other tuning, but it has its own set of rules. I suggest you read up on it and get familiar with the different kind of configurations at your disposal and decide how you want to use it. Its something I fully believe in, but its important to understand it yourself, or find a trusting tuner that does, or risk being disappointed. I’m convinced that those who go out of there way to poo poo it, never took the time to fully understand what it can ant cant offer them.
Just a tip, I would strongly recommend staying away from a 'progressive' pump injection kit such as the one AEM offers, for your SC set up. In theory it’s a neat idea, but in my experience it does not deliver safe and consistent injection due to the design. Its design is for the injection pump to spool up and make pressure before injection, when the desired psi is triggered, on a non turbo set up where there is no boost lag/spool up, it creates a delay in injection and erratic lean conditions. I recommend what I use, which is a solenoid controlled injection which has 100% pressure from a recalculating pump that runs all the time, when injection is called for, it instantly delivers 100% pressure and flow. This is more reliable, safer and easier to tune. You can make your own kit for about 2/3 the price as well. Otherwise shop for a single stage, non progressive kit through one of the several companies out there, Devils own, snow performance, to name a few.
Being you’re on a 10:1 comp motor, detonation isn’t going to be a limiting determining factor, not that it really was at the oem 11:1 with just a novi1000 at max impeller speed. So now your challenge is going to be touching your goal of 400whp. Since you lost a point of compression, your going to need to make up that lost power somehow. More timing in your tune is going to be the angle you’re going to want to look at, as well as additional cooling. Is water meth necessary with your set up? Not at all. Will you gain more power and have a better chance at reaching your goal? Absolutely.
Water/meth is a science and an art, just like any other tuning, but it has its own set of rules. I suggest you read up on it and get familiar with the different kind of configurations at your disposal and decide how you want to use it. Its something I fully believe in, but its important to understand it yourself, or find a trusting tuner that does, or risk being disappointed. I’m convinced that those who go out of there way to poo poo it, never took the time to fully understand what it can ant cant offer them.
Just a tip, I would strongly recommend staying away from a 'progressive' pump injection kit such as the one AEM offers, for your SC set up. In theory it’s a neat idea, but in my experience it does not deliver safe and consistent injection due to the design. Its design is for the injection pump to spool up and make pressure before injection, when the desired psi is triggered, on a non turbo set up where there is no boost lag/spool up, it creates a delay in injection and erratic lean conditions. I recommend what I use, which is a solenoid controlled injection which has 100% pressure from a recalculating pump that runs all the time, when injection is called for, it instantly delivers 100% pressure and flow. This is more reliable, safer and easier to tune. You can make your own kit for about 2/3 the price as well. Otherwise shop for a single stage, non progressive kit through one of the several companies out there, Devils own, snow performance, to name a few.
Water/meth is a science and an art, just like any other tuning, but it has its own set of rules. I suggest you read up on it and get familiar with the different kind of configurations at your disposal and decide how you want to use it. Its something I fully believe in, but its important to understand it yourself, or find a trusting tuner that does, or risk being disappointed. I’m convinced that those who go out of there way to poo poo it, never took the time to fully understand what it can ant cant offer them.
Just a tip, I would strongly recommend staying away from a 'progressive' pump injection kit such as the one AEM offers, for your SC set up. In theory it’s a neat idea, but in my experience it does not deliver safe and consistent injection due to the design. Its design is for the injection pump to spool up and make pressure before injection, when the desired psi is triggered, on a non turbo set up where there is no boost lag/spool up, it creates a delay in injection and erratic lean conditions. I recommend what I use, which is a solenoid controlled injection which has 100% pressure from a recalculating pump that runs all the time, when injection is called for, it instantly delivers 100% pressure and flow. This is more reliable, safer and easier to tune. You can make your own kit for about 2/3 the price as well. Otherwise shop for a single stage, non progressive kit through one of the several companies out there, Devils own, snow performance, to name a few.
Originally Posted by s2000Junky' timestamp='1325630652' post='21282813
Well of course, I am the saint of meth injection. But I do not indorse AEM kits in anyway 

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