Ive seen that motor for sale, im HIGHLY suspicious of it as he has no REAL receipts for work/labor performed. BE VERY CAUTIOUS.

 

Ya I talked with Greg and the shop that did all the work. Their supplying all of the receipts. Do you have any feedback on the quality of the build?

 

Supertech isn't known for being top quality, skunk2 isn't a popular rod choice, not sure how I feel about them being their cams are debatable. CP pistons are good.

The price seems good for what it is, as it would cost near double that to build it, but risky. The only way to really get some form of assurance, is if the shop did the work from square one from building engine to installing and then tuning, that way they own it and all on them if there is a problem. Engine builders and tuners or so fast to want to wash their hands clean of anything as soon as you hand them money, its almost criminal in my experience. I wont give you my tuning horror stories.

 

OEM.

Take the advice on the thread

 

OP, I am in a very similar situation as you.

I bought a 2000 ap1 with 120k miles and 5k miles on a completely rebuilt sleeved engine. The engine didn't even make it 6 hours home before it failed and scored the walls to hell. In my situation, the failure was caused by the ignorance of a shop to sleeve an engine, claim they bought new pistons for it on the paperwork, but instead just threw the old ones in. If i could find the guys who built it I'd probably end up with an assault charge... Words can't describe my anger. Old lady never drove the car hard or out of Atlanta = pistons and walls never got hot enough to cause damage. By Tennessee the motor was knocking and eventually started misfiring.

I would have to agree OEM is better... but here I go making the same choice as you.. My engine was already sleeved and the only damage was 1 piston and cylinder, so I am having it re-honed/bored depending on what is possible and using CP 9:1 pistons for reliability, was actually considering skunk2 connecting rods but my machine shop is still doing measurements so i am not yet ready to order any internals. Considering the only parts I am ordering are pistons and rods I do not expect to be spending too much on this build.

I am 100%, without a doubt, keeping the top end completely stock as everything worked great. The more OEM you can keep the motor, the absolute better. I'd trash that Supertech B.S. head and find a clean OEM one and have it machined, Honda built this engine better than any engine builder in this country, use everything from them you can. I am going for similar power goals as you as well, so you're not going to be the only one with a sub-500whp built engine. My #1 priority is reliability.

 

I was in the same boat since October 2016. Looked at all the options you are looking at. Didn't want a high mileage long block bought from a questionable source, questionable condition. Didn't want to waste money on a built motor since im running a gt3076. I ended up going all OEM f22, all being put together by a s2ki forum member. I do hate how no machine shops will touch our cylinder walls. All my v8 friends told me to bore it and get a bigger piston, got sick of explaining why i couldnt.

I let this drag on for 6 months before i pulled trigger on a build(winter in Minnesota).

 

Don't be a donkey and buy some motor touched by that many hands...there's zero accountability for WHEN something goes wrong.

 

I've investigated the reputation of the shops involved and think it will be a good engine. As I said the same engine had been shop owners car for 7 years. If it doesn't work out I'll have to try and part of out or something. I already have the engine!

 

Well, hope you fair ok then. Good luck.

 

could take the sump of and look at the bore condition before fitting the engine.