GL man, I rlly do hope it works out for you.

Could you post what the P2W clearance was for this 1000hp spec engine and ring gap?
rod & main bearings clearance?

What's the static cr?

If they can't give you any of this, the whole 1000hp advertisement automatically to me sounds like a marketing stunt to unload on a no offense! (Yuppy)
And if they can; in addition to ^... buying a true 1000hp engine plant should have no regards to reliable or even be seen as a smaller output rated engine. It's just not how it works. To defend the seller they sold you a turbo ready engine. To defend you, if you gave them your criteria I don't think it would of been a 1000hp spec short block in good faith. Just my .02

i could go on (skunk2 rods for 1000hp) :suspicious:
R they good enough for your goal? of course. That brings me back to why it's advertised at 1000 tho. :Shrug:

Again I hope it works out man, Helluva deal! Personally my rule is no one else's projects, almost all of us know (sleeved block buyers) where ur coming from tho.
We just want r boost back n hit the turns! (Reliably)
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Doesn't mean much, but I've got about 1700 miles on my sleeved motor with 0 oil burning so far. But I'm putting miles on quickly. I'll be doing 20-30,000 miles per year.

 

any update on how your motor is holding up since this post?

 

Well, we switched it out. I put on about 3000 miles with no issues, but then decided to go FI, and the sleeved motor with the deck plate (stroked to 2.4L) wouldn't really "fit" well. The builder I'm pretty sure put it in another car...but I don't know any details.

 

It would be nice to have more feedback from people with built motors. From what I see high hp(600+) stock motors are more reliable. I dont see the point in running anything over 800 if you have to rebuild it every other year. Yes you are putting more stress on the motor but lots of people are spending $$ on a build for it to be reliable to a certain extent. At that point I would rather get a k swap.