I'm sure miller took care of the 02 calibration. Bugermass posted some interesting info on H-T about flamefront speed...
"If the tune started off leaner say 12.5 somthing at XX amount of timing (let say very close to knock threshold ) but with no knock yet, then was progressivly richened to 11.0 without changes to timing, on that 3rd pull the flamefront speed would be significantly faster @ 11.0 than it was on the first 2 pulls and could have caused the motor to det.. The richer you go the faster the flamefront, the less timing you need, and vis versus.

I used to always think that richer will reduce knock, but thats not always the case, it depends on if your knocking because of too much timing, or if your knocking because the boundry layer is to thin and your getting pre-ignition.

Just some thoughts."

soul coughing...
thanks I will check out my banjo bolts/oil squirters when I tear my bottom end apart and let you know which they were. Funny however, because way back when I built my b16 through laskey racing, earl told me to plug the oil squirters because they were not necessary with forged internals.
anyway, when I put the new motor together I will make sure it has the updated banjo bolts.

 

thats not always true.

 

Here are the maps from the dyno:




finally got the laptop to connect!

 

same here...i just finished buying all my turbo parts

 

First, relax...motors with low mileage can be had relatively cheaply. I new short block from Honda can even be had reasonably.

If it isn't your daily drive then park her until you can save up for a fresh motor. The stock motor is stout...not invincible but most of us have been quite surprised by what the stock motor can handle. Look at the bright side...it's your chance to move to a 2.2L! You'll make a bit more torque/power. Don't give up on her yet...I almost sold mine before I snapped out of it!

 

Cheap? People think these things have gold in them or something. It's a honda not a rare supercar motor, yet people still ask crazy prices for motors. I'm working on getting a new motor now, should have it in a couple days. If all goes well, it should be back together, with a new clutch disk, TCT and ARP headstuds/new oem HG for around 700.

 

I spent $3k on my 2.2 upgrade shipped with 51k miles on it. Great runner and yes more power so not all is a bummer, except for the $3000 part that I put on a credit card to get back on the road! Thankfully I decided to go ahead and torture myself with performing the swap, or it would have been $4500 atleast the whole experience was more fun then cutting off both my arms and lighting the nubs on fire, i'm thankful for avoiding that

Always look on the brighter side

 

I know and thats crazy expensive. Like I said I should have it back together for about 700

ARP's - $140
Clutch Disk - $160
TCT - $150
OEM HG- $65
Complete shortblock with one spun rod bearing, re-use my crank and rods in that shortblock, $200.

 

Are you kidding me? I'll be impressed if you get your car back on the road for $700. Put yo money where yo mouf is!

 

Anything is possible if you spec and piece together your motor with new/used parts, but most of us don't have the patience or desire to go to those lengths of DIY's And the chances of failure goes up dramatically compared to a new or used uncracked motor from the factory. If you are a mechanic and have the tools or regularly are cracking into motors then you may be more successful and willing to go to this degree of build. I've pulled a head off in my day on a single cam motor, but I wont crack this one open. I'll stick to swapping complete motors.