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My car eats bolts...

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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 01:30 PM
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Default My car eats bolts...

Here is what I have had to contend with in 2 weeks since my car has been turboed. I have had to replace all my turbo - manifold bolts (used metric 10.9's , red loctite, stainless lock washers). Replace my manifold - head bolts ( used copper stover lock nuts from ATP turbo ). And last night my wastegate basically fell off, it had stainless allenkey bolts with lockwashers. I didnt feel like taking everything off so Im hoping the 12.9 metic allenbolts i got todaty with the threadlocker and stainless lockwashers gets it done. The only bolts that do actually stay on are the downpipe bolts on the backside of the turbine housing. I figured I would make this thread for any newcomers because they need to know to do it right with the absolute best bolts or expect to be stranded on the side of the road one day when your turbo or wastegate or manifold just falls off.
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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 02:08 PM
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safety wire or weld. those are what I did.
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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 02:15 PM
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locktite does nothing at these temps so stop using that, infact it'll actually make it worse as it breaks down and then leaves the bolt actually loose in place.

Next I suggest as said above you safety-wire them. Mine have come loose a few times but I found the best way to keep em in place is to just over Tq them a bit and use assembly lube on the install. This lets them actually get tighter and never breaks down, also it will make sure you can remove them later.

Safety-wire FTW!!!!!

-Greg
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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 02:17 PM
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Also on rare occasion, you can find bolts that have teeth in the backside of the head of the bolt.... those in combination w/ a lock-washer make for a nearly permanent install. You'll have to buy new bolts every time you undo them because the lock washer will grind the teeth off when you remove em but it works good. I guess you could even grind your own notches in the backside of the bolt's head as well and make them yourself but I've yet to try that.

-G
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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 02:29 PM
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i agree on the safety wiring recommendation; i had the same issue with the turbo to mani bolts until they were safety-wired
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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 05:09 PM
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With good studs and C-nuts or another type of mechanical locknut you should be fine. Don't use nyloc, make sure the ones you pick are ovaled or pinched in a triangular shape. Worst case scenario use a jam nut for good measure. Just make sure when using this type of lock nut you use a stud that is harder than the nut, which is why ATP sells brass/copper nuts.

Lock washers will be pointless in your setup just use a regular washer.
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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 08:01 PM
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www.stage8.com
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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 08:35 PM
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I've actually had my dump tube fall off on the interstate, the turbo hanging by two bolts, the downpipe by one, and the wastegate itself barely threaded in before. (this was on my first log manifold setup) Log manifolds seem to be especially bad about it due to the super high temperatures they see. Star type lockwashers, lots of torque, and frequent re-torquing seemed to help.

Tim
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Old Nov 2, 2008 | 09:22 PM
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I had the same problem about a year ago with my turbo to mani bolts IP it has been a notorious problem but since I went to stage 8 I haven't had any issues.
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Old Nov 3, 2008 | 06:51 AM
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yea assuming these bolts to fall off...i am gonna do the stage 8 on the turbo to manifold and use arp studs with copper stover nuts on the wastegate.
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