Sounds like you have multiple issues. No way 160F is typical for any size working Aftercooler set up. The highest IAT I ever logged was when the pump failed/stopped working in the middle of the summer in stop and go traffic and I saw a high of 152F. On the shitty small stock heat exchanger you shouldn't get above 135F or its not working properly. Sounds like you are addressing this problem now which is good. One of the side effects of a high IAT is an engine running rich. Coincidence? Maybe, maybe not. First thing id do is make sure your aftercooler is working 100%. You should be down in the 115-125F range. Once that is done, see if your fuel smell issues is still present. As mentioned you really should have a wideband installed, not only for keeping the car in tune for safety and maximizing its performance, but for situations like this when you need to troubleshoot. I haven't heard anything from the OP that says there would be an issue with the ESM. If the car pulls through the rpm in boost without experience ignition like break up, then its working. Keep it as is with the splice connectors or solder them if you like.

The fuel -12 fuel trims you are seeing is a normal reflection of a stock ecu that is seeing a higher then stock fuel pressure, i see no issue with this. Its just showing me that you are running a RRFPR. But again, you need to make sure its adjusted for the right pressure so that the engine is seeing a proper afr to run safe and not too rich that your fuel washing your engine in the lower rpms, which you very well could be doing right now with the other issue of a non working heat exchanger.

This said, put the EVAP canister back together as it should be, your just running down a wild goose chase grabbing for straws there.

 

Yeah. I was hoping I'd pull the canister off and it'd be full of liquid gas or have a crack on top that would explain the fumes. Or even a vacuum leak somewhere that wouldn't show up till the purge valve opened. It'll go back on and I'll keep searching for that leak. I'm afraid it's at the top of the tank somewhere I can't get at.

I need to find some softer/less kinkable water hose. I'm just using the stuff from Autozone and it's meh. I'm pretty certain I need to rotate the water pump somehow. Just don't see any way to do it without some much more bendable hose.

 

Do you think your actually having a fuel leak, or your just running incredibly rich from the reasons mentioned? This is why I say sort out the aftercooler first to make sure your IAT is proper and also get a wideband to check your afr to see if your having RRFPR issues... or just needing an adjustment there. Then go from there if your still smelling gas present.

Those auto parts stores carry a steel spring that slips over the hose to keep it from kinking up, just put one or two over each place where the hose has to bend. That’s what i did, works

 

The gas fumes were a problem from day one. The bogging didn't start till later. The smell has always seemed like it was coming from under the car and was strongest in the rear wheel wells. Last time I drove it, it smelled strongest at the cap. The cap is new and it's never come from there before. But I also have the tank venting to atmo now so who knows.

 

Still fukt.

I wasn't able to watch AFR since I haven't setup a laptop to log it yet. But I was watching an odb scan tool on my drive home.
Coolant temps were mostly staying between 200 - 215F.
Intake temps were mostly staying between 135 - 160F.

After an hour of mostly stop and go traffic, I get off the highway onto city streets. Short term fuel trims are all over the place. Smelling gas at every stop.
Every time it bogged, there was a corresponding drop of the STFT to about -15%. Once on a 3 - 4 shift, it hit -25% and felt like it stalled for half a second.
When I come to a stop, STFT hovers around 0% for 5 seconds or so then it just starts falling down to -10%. Take off an it bogs, dipping down to -15%.

Gas smells still seem to be coming from under the rear of the car. Strongest right in the drivers side rear wheel well.

 

What are the chances it could be an injector that wont fully close when hot?

 

Could it be fuel pump related? The fuel pump is behind the seats and plastic. Maybe thats why it seems like the smell is coming from around the rear wheels.

 

I don't think it is. If it was, I'd expect it to smell pretty much all the time. Also, when I pulled the evap canister off and capped everything, I apparently misunderstood which lines needed to be capped. This lead to a fairly pressurized tank and I think that's why all the sudden the smell was coming from the cap. I assume the cap was allowing some vapor out. I did open the access port to the top of the tank and there was a pretty good layer of dust with no signs that any liquid fuel had leaked there.

 

sounds like evap canister have you checked the fittings as there are push lock fittings that can be hard to get on. as for the 160f intake temps these are the max i see in 105f texas summer in traffic for an hour with the temps dropping to 130-120f