Guys

After I built my engine as a NA ,and I'm very willing and curious about doing more things.
So that I started to think about using nitrous oxide systems.

I have on my car CP 12.5 comp pistons and supertech 0.5 mm oversized valves and raceported cylinder head.
I'm currently using hondata flashpro as a engine management system. So the question in my mind is how I have to decide which system is useful for my setup.

Such as using Wet or Dry systems and about nozzle selection. Furthermore I don't want to cause any harm.

I'm looking forward to hear some tips from knowledgeable persons.

 

Wet is always safer than dry. There are several nitrous threads but they are all in FI. You will have better luck searching there. If you like I can move your thread.

Most I have seen in memory is 150 shot wet, 75 shot dry. Again this is just what I have in my head.

 

FlashPro doesn't offer any junctionality for N2O, so you would need a separate controller.

 

Personally I wouldn't put more than a 50-75 wet shot in there.what's your current power level and what are you trying to get to??

 

A dyno result which I had last showed that roughly 232 hp. My goal is to get extra hp without causing any damage.
Due to lack of knowledge I don't have any idea where to start.

 

Well IMHO direct port is safest.and start with small pills.I've seen small enough shots for each cylinder to where you'll be at around a 60 shot total( 15 shot per cylinder) would make the car quicker for sure.does that car feel slow now?

 

Make sure to time your n2o too I'd hate for you to use it too soon..... jr

 

Please please please get a window switch, and look into the zex wet kit with the nitrous controller.. A lot of guys claim to be running up to a 100 shot on the stock tune with zero issues. But since you have flashpro I'm not sure what you should do. But pm LiquidHelix he had nitrous and seems to know his shit. So give him a holla!

 

The rule of thumb is 20hp max. per cylinder on a stock engine.

This here is VERY important, so make sure that:

- The spark plugs are of the proper type (DO NOT use your ordinary platinum spark plugs, better go for either copper or iridium). With 75-100hp I would recommend a spark plug that is one heat range colder than your OEM spark plug. The electrode gap should not exceed that of your oem spark plug but it can be a bit shorter (10-20%)). All of these changes won't effect your "no nitrous" engine power and drivability.
- You don't use nitrous on a high compression engine unless you are using high octane fuel and/or retard your ignition timing.
- You don't use low quality fuel.
- You don't engage the system below a certain rpm range (ca. 2500) in higher gears (3rd and up). For those who don't know: That is what the afore mentioned "window switch" is for.
- You don't use advanced ignitition timing.
- Also make sure your fuel system will provide enough fuel for your desired hp level, 75hp should be no problem at all. This is to keep the engine from running lean.

If you play by those "rules" it is very unlikely you'll do any harm to a healthy engine when using nitrous.

Me personally I would recommend a "Nitrous Express Stage One EFI system", with perhaps some gadgets like a bottle heater (depending on where exactly you live), I would also definately go for a wet kit (which this one is).

A wet direct port system won't give you extra safety over a properly installed single nozzle wet system. You either use a DPS when you are running ITBs, need lots of power (more than 200 nitrous hp)or want the power to kick in just a tiny bit quicker. Of course some people also like the looks of DPS. For what you are after a DPS doesn't make much sense IMO as they are more expensive and harder to install.

Cheers

 

PS Instead of an ordinary window switch a more advanced controller is an option too, Nitrous Express has what they call the "maximizer", it offers a number of extras such as ignition controll, power ramping etc.. Such controllers are not that much more expensive than a window switch yet they are much better in many ways.