I just installed a LoveFab gt1 kit on my s and running on the base map decided to take a drive around the block to see if I can make it two hours to a tuner? The base map is way off and I would say unsafe to drive but the real question I have is how come no heat? I don't get it, the ems says I was 203*F but the heater was blowing cold air like ac. I looked under the hood to see if maybe the hose for the heater core was pinched or kinked and it wasn't. So does anyone have any ideas as to why this is happening? Thanks

Kristian

 

Is the cooling system filled to the proper level? Does the turbo use a engine coolant line? If it does, then perhaps when the line was tapped, the system got air in it and now it needs to be bled.
When the turbo manifold went in, maybe the valve on the heater hose going to the heater core got jammed or disconnected. When you move the heat control knob on the dash, does the valve in the engine bay by the battery move?

 

yea i had the same exact prob when installin my kit 2 weeks ago
i have a ur gen2 turbo kit tho
but i still had to flush the coolant
here is what i did to fix the problem
open the hood behind the engine and intake towards the windshield theres a black cap thats a bleeder for your coolant open it slowly and bleed the air outta the system
i had alot of air in there took about 3-5 times of turnin the car on and off for my heat 2 start workin again
but the air pockets in the lines was def the problem
hope i helped
good luck

 

Thanks guys, I am sure that is the problem since I didn't bleed the air out there, I only used the bleeder up front by the breather tube.

 

Yeah, I had the same problem. I noticed one night that my heater was blowing cold air, this was probably a few weeks after the turbo install... I didnt know about that damned second bleeder until I came here and did a search. I used the one by the firewall but didn't know about the other one.

 

if you removed the radiator, there could be air pockets in the system and/or your coolant level could be low.

 

Ok so I remove the rubber cap near the firewall when the car is warm or cold? I did it last night when the car was cold and it didn't do anything so I am assuming that it must be warm or under pressure. This is pissing me off, I can put a whole turbo kit on but I can't put coolant in right? I feel like a real a$$. Thanks for the help everyone!

 

One other thing to check. With turbos, things get very hot around the coolant control valve for the heater. There is a very real possibility of melting the cable and having the plastic "weld" the cable in place. That can cause the cable to stick wherever it was when the plastic melted. The easy solution is to let the car get hot and then remove the plastic that melted and jammed the mechanism while it's soft. Good luck!

Tim

 

First, I assume that you have checked that the valve actually moves when you move the heat control know. If you haven't done this simple test, you may be going around in circles.

As to your question, no, it doesn't matter if the coolant is cold or hot. You just have to make sure that the heater control knob it at full HOT and that the valve actually moved to the position that allows cooling to flow freely into the heater core. This is described in the service manual. If your valve is not open, this whole exercise is pointless.
Start with the engine cold so you can remove the rad cap. Top it up. You start the engine and first open the bleeder at the front of the engine. Rev engine a bit if you have to to make the coolant come out. Then close this one. Remove the rear bleeder rubber cap. Again rev the engine a bit if necessary to make the coolant come out. Recap when the coolant is coming out. Fill reservoir to proper level and continue to check it daily till it is stable.
There is a DIY coolant flush thread in the FAQs at the top of UTH.