Trouble getting the heater to blow hot air
04-16-2004, 07:34 AM
#1
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Trouble getting the heater to blow hot air
Last week i had s/c and a/c installed in my04(3700 miles).While iI was at it I bought an oversized radiator from Drew,and had it installed as well.No problems before the install with the heater. I am now having trouble getting the heater to blow warm air.It takes 10/15 minutes of driving before it warms at all,then if I stop at a light, it goes cool again until I take off.I took it back to the folks that did the install,and we are having trouble explaining.( The system is tight,no leaks.)this is not an issue with the weather as it is today.
Can anyone offer any thoughts?
kwkslvr
Can anyone offer any thoughts?
kwkslvr
04-16-2004, 08:26 AM
#2
Sounds to me the cooling system was not bled properly and you have HUGE air pockets within. Go over the bleed procedure carefully in the service manual.
However, here is the gist of it:
Turn the heater control to full HOT. Make sure that the heater valve has not been knocked or damaged when work was being done. When you turn the heater knob, have a friend look at the heater valve that is in the heater hose line by the battery. You should see the little lever also move. Once you've determined that the heater valve is OK, begin with a cool engine and start it up. Immediately and carefully remove the rad cap. While idling, make sure the rad level is topped up as high as the filler neck. Now, go to the bleed valve near the throttle body and open it. Make sure you wait till coolant comes out of it. Then close it. Now, go to the bleeder nipple (rubber thing) on the metal line that runs near the top of the firewall. Remove the nipple and again, wait till coolant comes out. You may have to slightly rev the engine to make this happen. As soon as coolant comes out, cap the opening and put the clamp back on. Now make sure the rad is topped up again. Put the rad cap back on securely. Run the engine till the rad fan comes on. Slightly rev it now and then to help push the air through and to help with the warm up. Fill the coolant tank to the HIGH mark. It may take 2 to 3 heat up, cool down cycles to completely burp all the air out of the system.
ps. It will help things if you do the above with the car parked on a slight "nose up" attitude.
pps. BTW, did you by chance change the thermostat? If you did, it may have been installed backwards or possibly with the bleed hole NOT on top. The bleed hole must be on top.
However, here is the gist of it:
Turn the heater control to full HOT. Make sure that the heater valve has not been knocked or damaged when work was being done. When you turn the heater knob, have a friend look at the heater valve that is in the heater hose line by the battery. You should see the little lever also move. Once you've determined that the heater valve is OK, begin with a cool engine and start it up. Immediately and carefully remove the rad cap. While idling, make sure the rad level is topped up as high as the filler neck. Now, go to the bleed valve near the throttle body and open it. Make sure you wait till coolant comes out of it. Then close it. Now, go to the bleeder nipple (rubber thing) on the metal line that runs near the top of the firewall. Remove the nipple and again, wait till coolant comes out. You may have to slightly rev the engine to make this happen. As soon as coolant comes out, cap the opening and put the clamp back on. Now make sure the rad is topped up again. Put the rad cap back on securely. Run the engine till the rad fan comes on. Slightly rev it now and then to help push the air through and to help with the warm up. Fill the coolant tank to the HIGH mark. It may take 2 to 3 heat up, cool down cycles to completely burp all the air out of the system.
ps. It will help things if you do the above with the car parked on a slight "nose up" attitude.
pps. BTW, did you by chance change the thermostat? If you did, it may have been installed backwards or possibly with the bleed hole NOT on top. The bleed hole must be on top.
04-16-2004, 10:21 AM
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Xviper,
Thank you for this bit of info. I have faxed a copy of this to the shop.I called the mechanic and was advised that they found a pinhole in one of the hoses/lines. I think that that might contribute to the problem.I was at the shop when they filled the radiator last week and I did not see them do any of what you said.They are going to do the bleed procedure now.
thanks again and I will advise if the problem gets resolved.
kwkslvr
Thank you for this bit of info. I have faxed a copy of this to the shop.I called the mechanic and was advised that they found a pinhole in one of the hoses/lines. I think that that might contribute to the problem.I was at the shop when they filled the radiator last week and I did not see them do any of what you said.They are going to do the bleed procedure now.
thanks again and I will advise if the problem gets resolved.
kwkslvr
01-23-2011, 02:27 PM
#5
Originally Posted by xviper,Apr 16 2004, 10:26 AM
Sounds to me the cooling system was not bled properly and you have HUGE air pockets within. Go over the bleed procedure carefully in the service manual.
However, here is the gist of it:
Turn the heater control to full HOT. Make sure that the heater valve has not been knocked or damaged when work was being done. When you turn the heater knob, have a friend look at the heater valve that is in the heater hose line by the battery. You should see the little lever also move. Once you've determined that the heater valve is OK, begin with a cool engine and start it up. Immediately and carefully remove the rad cap. While idling, make sure the rad level is topped up as high as the filler neck. Now, go to the bleed valve near the throttle body and open it. Make sure you wait till coolant comes out of it. Then close it. Now, go to the bleeder nipple (rubber thing) on the metal line that runs near the top of the firewall. Remove the nipple and again, wait till coolant comes out. You may have to slightly rev the engine to make this happen. As soon as coolant comes out, cap the opening and put the clamp back on. Now make sure the rad is topped up again. Put the rad cap back on securely. Run the engine till the rad fan comes on. Slightly rev it now and then to help push the air through and to help with the warm up. Fill the coolant tank to the HIGH mark. It may take 2 to 3 heat up, cool down cycles to completely burp all the air out of the system.
ps. It will help things if you do the above with the car parked on a slight "nose up" attitude.
pps. BTW, did you by chance change the thermostat? If you did, it may have been installed backwards or possibly with the bleed hole NOT on top. The bleed hole must be on top.
However, here is the gist of it:
Turn the heater control to full HOT. Make sure that the heater valve has not been knocked or damaged when work was being done. When you turn the heater knob, have a friend look at the heater valve that is in the heater hose line by the battery. You should see the little lever also move. Once you've determined that the heater valve is OK, begin with a cool engine and start it up. Immediately and carefully remove the rad cap. While idling, make sure the rad level is topped up as high as the filler neck. Now, go to the bleed valve near the throttle body and open it. Make sure you wait till coolant comes out of it. Then close it. Now, go to the bleeder nipple (rubber thing) on the metal line that runs near the top of the firewall. Remove the nipple and again, wait till coolant comes out. You may have to slightly rev the engine to make this happen. As soon as coolant comes out, cap the opening and put the clamp back on. Now make sure the rad is topped up again. Put the rad cap back on securely. Run the engine till the rad fan comes on. Slightly rev it now and then to help push the air through and to help with the warm up. Fill the coolant tank to the HIGH mark. It may take 2 to 3 heat up, cool down cycles to completely burp all the air out of the system.
ps. It will help things if you do the above with the car parked on a slight "nose up" attitude.
pps. BTW, did you by chance change the thermostat? If you did, it may have been installed backwards or possibly with the bleed hole NOT on top. The bleed hole must be on top.
Does anyone know where the bleeder valve by the throttle body is located? I can't seem to find it. What will it look like?
-spessx
01-23-2011, 02:37 PM
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