So thinking back I think I can pinpoint the start of this issue to when I relocated my battery to the trunk. I used 0 gauge wire to the engine bay. When I went to get my car tuned after going turbo Jeff had issues tuning because if the car shut off it wouldn't start back up after being hot. So we had to keep a jumper box hooked up to my New oem Honda battery. ( car starts fine when jumped.) So he suggested running dual 4 gauge wires. One to the fuse box, one to the starter. Just finished that and still have the same issue. All grounds are good and all connections good. This is driving me crazy. Car starts fine when cold or sitting for 30 minutes or so. Thinking it may be a issue with the aem v2?

 

See if your can borrow a map sensor if you can find one that's the same, I've seen the map sensor cause this before.

 

I'll have to check. It's almost new though. SOS 3 bar.

 

Had a similar issue, but i never relocated my battery. tried 2 different map sensors with same results. Eventually sold my turbo set up, went back to all stock and car starts and runs fine.

Also had aem v2.

 

My guess is that it is a tune/AEM issue. Hard to tell without knowing your voltages when cranking. Might just be that the injector settings for that voltage are not correct. The car has different fueling needs when starting cold versus when starting hot as well.

 

OK so you say it doesn't start... does it turn over without the jumper box on? You say a NEW battery, but have you had the battery checked out? Just because its new doesn't mean its 100%. If it starts with the jumper box connected my bet is the battery. I guess once you have left it 30 mins the battery has settled and produces the 12v for that short period. Hook your laptop up and check the voltage on cranking. I believe the v2 doesn't start once the voltage drops <10v I think off the top of my head.

 

I had the same exact issue. I switched over to welding lead cable and car fired up better than stock. I dont remember the size, but it was big. around 0 gauge. i also ran the same size cable for the ground up to the block of the motor.

 

Car will crank when hot, although seems a little more weak. I need to hook up a laptop and check the voltage.

 

I switched to 4 gauge welding lead cable for positive and negative, although my ground is to the chassis in the trunk.

 

i dont think it's big enough. i had the exact issue. jumper box on the dyno and everything. not sure if it made a difference, but i also added a 0 gauge ground from the block to the subframe on the driver side where there is a factory ground. its not that your starter isnt getting enough volts, its the ecu.