Alright guys heres a quick rundown of what my trouble is..

58k Miles on a bone stock F20C (internally, never opened)
Car ran good with no oil burn or smoke out the exhausts when it was NA/stock.
Installed the Mase Engineering kit with the 6262 turbo as most of you already know.
A couple days after it was running I noticed that when I came to a stop the car would puff smoke/oil out the exhaust for a couple seconds. Sometimes it'll be a light puff for a second, other times it'll be a nice smoke show for 3 seconds.

Compression checked out good : 21x 21x 22x 22x roughly, dont remember the exact numbers, but they were in spec. This was done 3 hours after not driving the car. On the dyno right after a pull the numbers were 21x 21x 23x 23x slightly higher right after a dyno pull, but still within spec none the less.
Plugs are dry, no sign of oil ever being on them.

So I got an idea to try a thicker weight oil, instead of 10w 30, I tried 10w40 this time around. The oil burn disappeared for about a week. Then it came back and hasn't left me since.

My return line is as straight down as it gets.. and also tapped the block, in the girdle area.

I've pulled the DP off the turbo, and the dam thing is dry.. wiped my finger on the dp/turbo and No oil residue.. but if i go to the exhaust tip.. its clearly oily.

I monitor my oil levels almost daily, and it never seems to move on the dipstick, so its a fairly light amount of oil that is being burnt off somewhere...

Yes I have a catch can, no its not getting full, nor does the motor get much blow by.

No oil leaks as far as I can tell. I've basically run out of idea.
I normally would blow minor stuff like this off if it were every now and then.. but its during every drive.. and Its a daily..

Any help would be great.
If it I cant find the answer without pics/vids then I'll have to get pictures later this week.

Thanks in advance.
Also yes.. I finally got my car dyno tuned. I'll save that for another thread though along with new track times as soon as I fix this oil puffing issue and make it to the track.

 

The exact same thing happened to me, the turbo seal is bad.

 

in having the same issue. I also had smoke on the dyno on certain pulls... The whole rear of my car is pretty nasty right now.

 

That was my guess as well.. just weird that it'd happen at barely over 1000 miles. =(

 

Turbos don't have "seals". They have a gapped piston ring on the end of the shaft. They don't "blow".

The only way a turbo is going to leak oil out the exhaust is:

1. There is enough turbo bearing wear to cause play in the shaft to crush or damage that piston ring.

2. Oil is backing up into the turbo bearing housing due to an obstructed drain.

99.999999% of the time it is #2.

Here are a few causes of a backed up drain:
- The drain hose is kinked
- There is too much crank case pressure building up in the drain line which slows down the flow of oil coming out the bottom of the turbo. Remember that the drain isn't under much pressure, it just drains by gravity.

I am willing to bet under decel after doing a boosted run it is building way too much crank case pressure, and your factory breather ports aren't enough to ventilate it.

As a precaution I would also do a leak down test in the motor. I am not saying that is what your problem is, but you can have good compression numbers but still have a damaged piston. A leak down test will tell you if you have any cylinder leak down into the crank case system which would cause excessive pressure.

Where is your drain going to? The girdle or oil pan?

 

Ramocheese hit it right on the head. I give it a 95% chance of being too much crank case pressure. I've seen a similar issue on a G35 and also a Vette. They ended up adding scavenge pumps to the oil drain.

I would work on venting the crank case pressure as much as possible first to see if that solves the issue. Might have to resort to a scavenge pump if necessary.

Some engines just build more crank case pressure than others; maybe just depends on how the engine was broken in.

 

You shouldn't need an oil scavenge pump on S2000's. Vette's generally use them because the turbos are mounted below the pan, so you need to pump it back to the pan. Most vettes smoke with scavenge pumps due to needing a surge tank and most kits don't include it.

Generally you'll see a bit more crank case pressure in the pan due to windage than you would see in the girdle. With the stock breather ports and draining to the pan you may run into issues on journal bearing configurations.

The more crank case ventilation you have the better, and generally hondas do get a bit of blow by due to the motor being high compression and revving high. Adding additional breather ports going to a catch can above the baffles in the valve cover can only help you.

Another thing to check is if your are still using the factory PCV system, make sure that your PCV valve is actually closing when you go into boost. If it leaks or doesn't fully seal when you blow into it, then going into boost will pressurize the crank case, and cause some drainage issues.

 

I agree that a pump should not be necessary. It's more of a 'last resort' measure. The one particular G35 had a smoking issue that no others had had with the exact same turbo kit. The installer went through the trouble of changing the oil drain locations to as high as possible in the upper oil pan of the VQ engine. It should have been well above the oil level. Also the oil drains from the turbos were quite vertical and should not have had a drainage issue. PCV system checked out on the car. Finally, after all other avenues had been explored (including checking oil pressure at the inlet to the turbo, and they had designed their own custom restrictors), they tried the scavenge pump and it solved their issues. For some odd reason, this one engine in particular created high crankcase pressure when many other engines with the exact same setup did not.

 

I can tell you from experience that there are a few more scenario’s

(3) The turbo was not assembled correctly and the seal was not seated or twisted during the installation (Very Common w/ Precision & Garret will surely get worse as Honeywell Assimilates them further)
(4) The Supply Oil Pressure is too High
(5) The Supply Oil Flow rate is too High

As far as the crankcase ventilation is concerned I am going ask that you explain that b/c it makes no sense to me due to the following factors.

(1) The oil drain is sewer flow thus the center section is equalized to the pan
(2) The incoming oil pressure is much higher than the crank case pressure could ever be unless you were missing a piston.

I would note that if your crankcase pressure was exceedingly high you could potential stack oil under hard acceleration IF you were draining under the oil level. Even this could easily be eliminated by adding a small equalizer line from the crank case to the drain line. Mase’s kit plumbs above that level though so unless the oil was overfilled this is also unlikely.

I would agree that many people incorrectly plumb the turbo but I can assure you with a good turbo shaft seal on Mase’s kit you will not stack oil regardless of where you tapped the pan/girdle. There is enough static head that oil stack up is very unlikely.

 

maybe car is burning oil from leaky valves, guides, seats? leakdown test time!