so i have an ap1 with ap2 drivetrain comptech supercharger 15 row oil cooler. 5w40 amisol plx gauge (don't know if i trust it) the car has 80k miles the motor i was told had 50k miles 20k miles ago oil pressure has been consistent but as i am about to install a new novi 1200 i want to make sure.
cold oil pressure is 65psi at 200 degrees idle is 15 psi 65 at 3k rpm and up at 230 degrees i see 8-10 psi idle and cruising pressure fluctuates between 55-75psi mostly 65psi my vtec engagement is 4k rpm i see oil pressure drop to 50-55psi . i am wondering if i should pull my pan and check my rod bearings /replace and or shim my oil pressure relief spring so i can have more pressure in high rpm's ? let me know what you guys think

 

really no body monitors there oil pressure on there oil fed supercharger setup i just want to know what your hot idle and 3-4k rpm psi is ?

 

Shimming the reg isn't going to help when you're dropping under the regulator pressure anyway.

 

why not ? i put my honda pressure gauge on the car and at 176 degrees i am at 25 psi idle 75 psi at 3k rpm and i can see the pressure go up slightly then drop which it the bypass valve opening. so if i shim it then i will have more high rpm oil pressure. as of right now i feed a supercharger 8 feet of -10 an line and a 15 row oil cooler. those where not designed to be in the oil pressure system which leads me to think if i pull my cooler plate and cap my supercharger oil feed as i will be upgrading to the novi1200. my guess is i will get back the lost oil pressure . i will also be installing a moroso baffle when i swap chargers so i will plastigauge my rods if all is well then i will shim the bypass so i have the specified oil pressure. have done it on cbr 600rr race bikes with huge coolers and loose bearing and it did the trick on it same style oil pump where is the flaw in my logic?

 

bump

 

I run a n1200 with no oil cooler. My oil pressure ranges from about 18psi to low twenties hot. I'm not sure what it is between 3-4rpms, but I think it peaks in the 80s. I'm just going off of memory.

 

thanks i see 85 on memory recall of coarse if i am ripping on it i am not looking down at the gauge just looking to establish a base line on s/c oil cooled f20-22c

 

I monitor mine. Similar to above when it's all warmed up (220F)+ I usually see 18-20psi idle and around 75-85psi around 3-4krpms. I have my vtec at ~6k and see a drop once i hit that. No oil cooler but considering adding one because I see oil temps up to 260F when getting on it during spirited driving. Going to see what winter temps look like first.

Your pressures are lower (which makes sense because of the oil cooler) but seem to be acceptable. 230 seems kinda high for N/A, once you add a S/C I would expect that to go up considerably. I would think the oil cooler would keep it colder than that.

 

i have a novi 1000 supercharger now just upgrading. so 2 oil leaks in the system[ s/c and cooler] i believe are causing my pressure drop. when i have info one my testing i will post it i know there are poeple/shops that know the answer but don't want to give up the info i will. i drove it yesterday and with my vtec set at 4k i see 65psi at 3k then i drop to 50psi in vetc and at redline i am at 68psi so i believe its the relief valve limiting pressure and i know the pump wont cavitate until 12k rpm and over 100 psi as the chain has a leaf spring on one of the chain followers . i just got done polishing the 1200 so in the next few weeks i will install it. when i do i will see my pressure without the charger and then without the cooler then shim the bypass 3mm and see what i get thanks for the info. yea 260f on the oil is bad that's why i run coolers on everything i own. i never get over 245f and that's tracking in summer here in Texas 105f

 

I'm curious about your shimming modification, and first ive heard of such a thing. Please post some pics/how to, and a before/after pressure difference.