One more question regarding the welding... I have had Muffler shops weld bungs onto SS pipes before, but never aluminum... do I need to go somewhere special that has a tig welder?

 

Yes you would need to use a tig welder.

 

You need a welder who has TIG capable of aluminum welding(DC) and iirc, those fittings are anodized(?), so you'd need to take the anodizing off before welding it to prevent contamination.

You can't use "rubber" hose but you can use high-temp silicone tubing with a heatshield and you should be fine, if you want to go AN+SSlines, that's an option too.. looks more bling, I suppose.
Silicone works perfectly fine though.

 

If you have any Oven cleaner laying around, it works good at striping anodizing . Just spray it and let it sit for a few minutes.

 

[QUOTE=Artisan7471,Sep 29 2009, 08:56 PM] If you have any Oven cleaner laying around, it works good at striping anodizing .

 

Fuzz isn't going to hurt anything, that's what oil filters are for.

 

Anybody use the same fitting comptech uses for their oil return through the drain plug for a turbo application? Any potential issues going this route?

 

There shouldnt be much RTV on the block itself..
usually it's on the pan, and you can use a soft wirebrush to remove it or just start peeling it off.. i dont think bonds to the pan surface completely.

 

that would be a bad idea for any FI setup... the oil needs to flow freely into the pan, especially with an oil hungry journal bearing turbo like I have

When Blackedoutinc rewelded my fitting tonight, we moved it to the extreme top edge of the pan. Better safe than blown seals

 

Ive allways heard that draining oil below the oil pan level is bad, but alot of kits do this and seem work fine? I beleive the greddy kit is this way along with the comptech. All of my tuner friends said this was a no no so I just tapped the girdle to be on the safe side. never had any problmes with it.