A week is gone and I still overheat while cruising in no-boost.

Here is my check list:

1.Big radiator (3-core Tabata, can't get any better) CHECK
2.New Spoon thermostat CHECK
3.New Mugen fan switch CHECK
4.New coolant with a proper flush and several bleads CHECK
5.CF Cooling plate CHECK
6.NEW oil CHECK

Now yesterday evening, when the temperatures were finally below 30c (86F)
I drove her for a longer period of time really hard, staing in boost most of the time. I pull over, open the hood and the whole manifold, downpipe and turbo were glowing but the coolant temepratures were fine at 195F. If my cooling system would be "underpowered", I would overheat big time, right?

Same day afternoon while temps were around 97F I cruise at the highway at a stable 90mph, since I gave 4.57 gears I read 4500-5000rpm during these speeds and the coolant temps climb up all the way to 215F and stay there. If I switch off the A/C they drop under 210F. THese is NO_BOOST cruising, low load on the engine, high gear...A/F are in the high 13s and low 14s...am I running to lean or what could be it? Headgasket failure is very unrealistic, my car has 12k miles on the clock and is FI for only a month and was overheating since day one with the turbo.

How is it possible that she can take it while driven hard but is overheating while cruising?

 

maybe you should run your car with some dual fans wired to your ignition so that it turns on automatically when you start the car. make sure you run a fuse between the fans and your battery.

or you could use a aftermarket over flow bottle. something like its higher than the rest of you cooling system so there is totally no air in it.

um...i dunno like vent your hood.

unless theres something wrong with your car...

 

I am running a vented hood (TS) and I don't think the fans will do, cause when she sitts and idles, the fans stock fans cool her down pretty fast. The fans would be my guess if I would overheat in traffic but not at 70mph There is enough air flow at 70mph right?

 

get some FAL fans... also, do you have a radiator plate? when you installed your new radiator, did you replace the black foam seal against the frame rail?

 

also, in VERY hot situations, sometimes straight water is better...

 

UPDATE:
Yesterday late night I started the engine and bleed the coolant one more time.
Today, right after work I drove home.Took her out,let her warm up (barely 180f after 10min. non boost driving) and than started simulating some driving situations.

I tryed 60mph driving in 15psi vacuum for 10minutes,cause that's were I overheated yesterday, than more than 5 WOT full boost acceleration runs in 6th gear from 60mph to 125mph.
Some more acceleration runs from a very slow roll all the way trough the gearbox and 125mph,than parked her and let her idle.A overheating car would overheat right now,right?
The HIGHEST I saw was just over 195F during the hard runs and after only 2min. of idling it's 180f.

She was not even close to overheating in 5 x harder driving (read as WOT long time max boosting in high gears)situations in 104f heat!!!

Might the last late night bleeding solved it out?

BTW do USDM cars come with 2 fans stock as our cars here?

 

yes, USDM do have 2 cooling fans. The only way bleeding the system would increase cooling would be if you left air in the lines when you filled it up prior... which most definately would cause signifigant overheating...

 

well, I hope that was it

 

There is a bleed valve located in the front of the intake manifold. You may have missed that one. I know I did.

 

well I wrote twice that I bleeded the coolant, so it looks like I did not miss it ; )