Where you live I don't think you need to worry about freezing.
Lubrication and corrosion prevention are the only reason to run antifreeze above freezing. You could run straight water with just an additive like water wetter that will lubricate and prevent corrosion. Water is better at cooling than an antifreeze mix. Something else could still be wrong though.

 

bleading it twice, and bleading it right are two different things. It took me more then twice to get all of the air out of the system. I was not trying to insult, only help.

If there is air still stuck in the system, it would surely cause a problem like you discribe. The car has two bleed valves for a reason. Also "The HIGHEST I saw was just over 195F during the hard runs and after only 2min. of idling it's 180f." that is abput normal for temps. Infact that is at the low end. So it does sound like it is fixed.

 

^^^ I know you wanted to help. I used the bleader in the front of the block, if there is another one please let me know where.
Funny thing is, it runs fine...use to overheat while cruising and yesterday I just could not drive her fast and hard enough to make her overheat again. I really hope it was just the air in the system. Will air in the system overheat ALL THE TIME or it is circulating and might just block the coolant in some situations?

The packaging on the coolant sais the boiling point of the coolant is higher with a 60/40 mix than a 50/50...I went for a 50/50.
What do you guys think of GASTROL 30% pre mixed coolant? At least this would help me with the destilled water problem (can't get any at all!)
but is the concentration not far off compared to factory spec (50%) ?

If I don't overheat in the next weeks, I will just leave it as it is. I guess it's time to get a better watter temp. gauge as well...the autometer sucks. Sometimes I have to hit it to make it move, but overheating was reported by the OEM temp. sensor as well since the CEL came on..we'll see, thanks for all the help and brainstorming from you guys!

 

maybe the timing at idle is wrong

 

There is a second valve. It is on the back firewall. It is on a metal tube that feeds the heater.

Yes, if you have enough air in the system, the coolant will not curculate, and in turn cause you to overheat. But it sound like you got the air to pass and get trapped in the radiator, and then it passed out the coolant overflow.

 

Well, today morning 115F outside, I drove her 20 minutes to work and it barely reached 185F. Since my Spoon thermostat is opening sooner and the Mugen fan switch is running the fans sooner, I do not see more than 185F in normla traffic. I HOPE the problem is solved! What is the working temp. on the S....is 185F not too low?

 

What would idle timing have to do with overheating while cruising? Idling was not touched at all, same as Cody's timing with the old set up. And I run 98oct. fuel so I guess this myth is BUSTED

 

whoa, maybe you should be on the show too. You can be the guy to replace buster.

BTW, if it's 120 degrees outside and your car is only reaching coolant temps. of 190F, what are you complainning about? That is exceptional performance out of the cooling system.

 

I tell you what I am complaining about.

I drive her in the morning to office, do high way cruising, stop&go driving in traffic, 1-2 WOT races and she does not cross 195-200F while it's 93F outside with A/C on.

I drive her the SAME route on my way home from office during lunch time when it's 98F outside, less stop&go traffic, no race just cruising at exactly 60mph with A/C on, 4000rpm, -15psi vacuum and she trows a CEL ligt and 215F in my face after 10 minutes When I switch off the A/C the temps seem to fall a bit....this is what makes me mad . SOmetimes I can drive the shit out of her and she is fine, and than out of fcucking nowhere she overheats while being driven like a sugar doll.

Same shit happened yesterday. Today morning she was fine again (while moving in traffic she did not reach even 195F). I'm giving up.

DO YOU READ ME ?

BTW. I run a 18psi cooler cap and the package of the coolant says, boiling point with a 15psi cap and 50/50 mix is above 110C whats 230F....so do I really OVERHEAT when the nee dle touches 215F on the gauge and the CEL (set on 215F) comes on or am I still fine?

 

Try swapping out the fan for something that flows more then. They're fairly inexpensive and works incredibly well. Also, set your fans to switch on earlier (doesn't make a difference with the A/C on though).