Parts List for 600whp+
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 8,044
Likes: 6
From: South Florida
i think the big problem is 600+ means the tranny WILL DIE. not may, but WILL. u will break it in gear, on a shift, just looking at it with that power. obviously diff too, which you talked about.
other then that, cant wait to see it
other then that, cant wait to see it
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 1,407
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From: avondale AZ
Originally Posted by Tech7427,Jan 19 2010, 10:11 AM
sent you pm.. basically tap into the stock fuel pump relay command ON wire . use that to control the 044 relay.
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 9,570
Likes: 3
From: New Jersey
Originally Posted by camuman,Jan 19 2010, 06:22 PM
i think the big problem is 600+ means the tranny WILL DIE. not may, but WILL. u will break it in gear, on a shift, just looking at it with that power. obviously diff too, which you talked about.
other then that, cant wait to see it
other then that, cant wait to see it
serious question.................
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,507
Likes: 51
From: Sellersburg, IN
My tranny has held up pretty good on 440 ft lbs of tq and 581 whp. 440 tq is comparable to someone with a larger turbo making 700 whp. I even did quite a bit of speed shifting at that power. Sometimes my 5th and/or 6th gear would lock out but would come back after a little bit of driving and forcing on it to go in. I have sense stopped boosting with that power up in 5th and 6th gears. I think that if you dont speed shift with over 600 whp, you should be fine for a while. I know when I get closer to 700 whp, I'll shift slower to try and save the tranny for as long as I can.
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 8,702
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From: houston
Originally Posted by JoeyBalls,Jan 19 2010, 08:38 PM
you think it will hang on for the DYNO session?
serious question.................
serious question.................
I been on 550whp and 3-400 trq for some time now with no problems at all and when I drive it I drive it hard
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 3,791
Likes: 1
From: Around
For me it will be farting around town on the low boost setting, 400/600.
Then when I hit the track, I'll crank it up to see what happens.
I only rocked on 500whp a few times all last summer...I'm not overly crazy.
I spoke with Jeff, and he told me the Comp Stage 4 Clutch (what I have) holds 700whp+, he hasn't found it's limit..so I'm solid there.
Tranny/Clutch (crosses fingers).
I'll more than likely order the turbo/inline bosch pump @ the same time.
Find myself a fuel regulator and go from there.
Guys w/FPR's, will the OEM rail work ok?
Also, I'm a little cloudy on adding the inline bosch fuel pump install...a little more help would be great.
Then when I hit the track, I'll crank it up to see what happens.
I only rocked on 500whp a few times all last summer...I'm not overly crazy.
I spoke with Jeff, and he told me the Comp Stage 4 Clutch (what I have) holds 700whp+, he hasn't found it's limit..so I'm solid there.
Tranny/Clutch (crosses fingers).
I'll more than likely order the turbo/inline bosch pump @ the same time.
Find myself a fuel regulator and go from there.
Guys w/FPR's, will the OEM rail work ok?
Also, I'm a little cloudy on adding the inline bosch fuel pump install...a little more help would be great.
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 6,507
Likes: 51
From: Sellersburg, IN
Yes, the AEM adjustable FPR fits on the stock fuel rail and works very well. Your stock fuel rail will work just fine for what youre going for. I am selling my AEM FPR thats in great shape and fits the stock fuel rail if youre interested.
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 9,570
Likes: 3
From: New Jersey
Originally Posted by Evans Tuning,Jan 20 2010, 07:39 AM
The BAS is adjustable, and I use the minimum amount of voltage increase to get the desired result from the coils. Its trial and error. I have been wiring them to the EMS or Kpro and turning the BAS "on" under higher boost levels. Since it raises voltage it can cook the factory coils due to the dwell time that they operate at. If you trigger the BAS to turn on above 10-15 psi the time the voltage increase is on is minimal and allows the coils not to heat up. The BAS triggers off of a hobbs pressure switch, but I have found that triggering them at a much higher psi is the way to go with an EMS. I have not seen any power increases per say with the BAS hooked up other than the obvious power difference between a misfiring dyno run and one without.
Tubular manifold w/ GT35r & Water/Meth?