Paxton 1220SL
Hey I just wanted to ask anyone's feedback on having my SC rebuilt.
I currently a Paxton 1220SL that started making some terrible noises as if the bearings were toast. The blower has 25k miles on it, fluid has been changed well before the recommended intervals with the Paxton fluid, I have plenty of empty bottles to prove it
Long story short anyone had experience in changing their 1220SL over to a 1200 NONSL? I am in the process of sending it back into Paxton, waiting on a call back for estimate of time and cost.
Anyone see any down sides to this? I daily drive the car and would appreciate any feedback anyone may have.
Thanks
Nik
I currently a Paxton 1220SL that started making some terrible noises as if the bearings were toast. The blower has 25k miles on it, fluid has been changed well before the recommended intervals with the Paxton fluid, I have plenty of empty bottles to prove it

Long story short anyone had experience in changing their 1220SL over to a 1200 NONSL? I am in the process of sending it back into Paxton, waiting on a call back for estimate of time and cost.
Anyone see any down sides to this? I daily drive the car and would appreciate any feedback anyone may have.
Thanks
Nik
I have no experience myself with these units, but I have read a lot of threads regarding the self lubricated units failing and needing a rebuild very early. If I were you I would ask them to convert it to non SL.
Off topic but: I believe you can also have them upgrade your supercharger to a 1200 or 1500.
Off topic but: I believe you can also have them upgrade your supercharger to a 1200 or 1500.
I'd like to know how this goes for you as well.
I've already had my 1220 SL rebuilt once. The next time it needs it I want to go to 1200 non-SL. I know that changing it to the 1200 version is easy.
I assume that changing from SL to non-SL is also very simple. Which made me think, even on the SL models, could you use regular 10w30 oil in them? Why the need for a different type of oil? Does it get too hot when it isnt circulated through the rest of the engine perhaps?
J
I've already had my 1220 SL rebuilt once. The next time it needs it I want to go to 1200 non-SL. I know that changing it to the 1200 version is easy.
I assume that changing from SL to non-SL is also very simple. Which made me think, even on the SL models, could you use regular 10w30 oil in them? Why the need for a different type of oil? Does it get too hot when it isnt circulated through the rest of the engine perhaps?
J
I dont think you have to tap the pan, I believe it returns through the oil drain bolt. But I'm not certain on that, I could be wrong.
And yes, I believe the initial appeal to the SL systems was for ease of maintenance, it becomes much less appealing when they die faster.
J
And yes, I believe the initial appeal to the SL systems was for ease of maintenance, it becomes much less appealing when they die faster.
J
Originally Posted by LeonGalt,Oct 25 2010, 02:37 PM
I dont think you have to tap the pan, I believe it returns through the oil drain bolt. But I'm not certain on that, I could be wrong.
And yes, I believe the initial appeal to the SL systems was for ease of maintenance, it becomes much less appealing when they die faster.
J
And yes, I believe the initial appeal to the SL systems was for ease of maintenance, it becomes much less appealing when they die faster.
J
I know a bunch of people running SL Rotrex units on other cars with no issues for 50k miles.
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I just looked it up, I think they do...
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I just looked it up, I think they do...
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