Photo of My Cleaned Up Greddy Kit
07-12-2008, 10:06 AM
#1
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Photo of My Cleaned Up Greddy Kit
I've been getting lots of PMs regarding my Greddy kit setup, and how I modified it to be...well...a bit stronger and more reliable.
Here is a shot of the motor bay (didn't have a chance to detail it yet, stay tuned for that....)...
I will add all the modifications to this post. Some of my "upgrades" will help your kit run better...
Ok....let's break it down....
Use the blue numbers and items circled in white as your references. Now note...I've had experience with Greddy kits, and while I think they are great, they are a bit cut-corner in certain areas which later down the line, will create headaches for you. My "mods" will remove these "headaches" and it's one less item you have to worry about.
1) First and foremost, the couplers and clamps. The Greddy couplers are very thin...VERY thin. Over time, they dry up and begin to crack. You want to replace them with AT LEAST 3 ply silicone couplers, and if you are really paranoid, you can use hump couplers. Please note, that couplers aren't cheap. They might look cheap, but when you add them all up, expect to pay nearly $100 for the entire kit.
Next, I replaced all the screw worm clamps with bolt down solid steel clamps. They do not back out, and stay tight no matter the pressure. Again, not too cheap (about $4 each) but IMHO, well worth it.
2) Silicone lines, T fittings, and vacuum block. I strongly recommend to replace ALL air lines with high grade silicone lines. Rubber lines can crack, and it will take you forever to figure out where it is. Silicone hose is relatively cheap. The T fittings that are provided with the kit should be discarded as fast as possible. Over a relatively short period, the hot underhood temps will disintegrate the nylon, and it will quite literally, turn to dust. Replace them with solid aluminum t-fittings....this will prevent vacuum/boost leak.
You can get them here.... http://www.pspmfg.com/TFittings.html
(Note, you need the first ones...1/8", but you can shove the larger ones into the hose if you want a tighter fit. The larger ones are 5/32")
I also highly recommend you use a vacuum block, and try to eliminate as many Ts as you can. This will not only provide a much cleaner look, but will also be A LOT easier to track down a leak, since every component will have it's own line (this of course means you will need more hose to go around.)
3)Although I have the AUT cooling plate, and you might not, the metal "finishing" piece provided by Greddy causes massive heatsoak in the motor. Our motor is designed to run with a low pressure "weather system." Cold air is directed by the stock radiator place over the top of the motor, which causes the hot air to drop down and get sucked out from under the motor. With that Greddy piece installed, the air from the cooling plate (stock or aftermarket) can't get into the motor bay, causing ALL the hot air to become trapped under the hood. Even if you have a vented hood, unless you have a scoop (like an STI) you are not introducing any cold air into the motor bay. With a vented hood, you are releasing hot air, only to be replaced by more hot air. You need to draw cold air into the motor bay.
Now, I recommend two things, and yes, I've tested this extensively (with and without my tuner.)
a)Get an AUT cooling plate, and REMOVE the stock one. Besides making your motor bay cleaner, the chamber concentrates the airflow VERY well. Even with a small fan, you can feel the air accelerating out of the duct.
b)Also, (I will get a photo of this) right under the #3 in the photo above, you need to cut out a square out of the Greddy metal piece....direcly under the cooling plate's "exhaust". The result is a MASSIVE cold air rush into your motor bay. I will try to shoot a video to show you guys what I mean. It works, and it works VERY well.
4)Heat wrap. While the Greddy stuff is decent, it's a PITA to work with, and looks hideous. Pick up a roll of 1.5" black header wrap from SummitRacing ($50 for a roll) and wrap the AC lines with it. It will take a bit of time to do a nice job, but the end result is a lot nicer. The flash made the wrap brighter than it is. It looks like a factory item in person. IMHO, it's also better at keeping the lines cool. Be careful when you wrap as to not snap the lines.
5)If you don't have a BOV, disregard this part. If you have a BOV, my tuner told me the MAP sensor should remain in the stock location. He moved it back, and I have no CELs. I don't know enough about turbos to explain why, maybe someone a little more seasoned can. He told me the piece that Greddy provides is made to act like a mini BOV, and release the pressure when the throttle body closes, preventing compressor surge. However, my BOV is a Synapse, which eliminates surge, so your BOV might not be compatible with the above.
I will think of something else that I did, and post it up. At the moment, I think that's the basics of it. Hope this helps some people avoid problems that can arise with this kit.
Here is a shot of the motor bay (didn't have a chance to detail it yet, stay tuned for that....)...
I will add all the modifications to this post. Some of my "upgrades" will help your kit run better...
Ok....let's break it down....
Use the blue numbers and items circled in white as your references. Now note...I've had experience with Greddy kits, and while I think they are great, they are a bit cut-corner in certain areas which later down the line, will create headaches for you. My "mods" will remove these "headaches" and it's one less item you have to worry about.
1) First and foremost, the couplers and clamps. The Greddy couplers are very thin...VERY thin. Over time, they dry up and begin to crack. You want to replace them with AT LEAST 3 ply silicone couplers, and if you are really paranoid, you can use hump couplers. Please note, that couplers aren't cheap. They might look cheap, but when you add them all up, expect to pay nearly $100 for the entire kit.
Next, I replaced all the screw worm clamps with bolt down solid steel clamps. They do not back out, and stay tight no matter the pressure. Again, not too cheap (about $4 each) but IMHO, well worth it.
2) Silicone lines, T fittings, and vacuum block. I strongly recommend to replace ALL air lines with high grade silicone lines. Rubber lines can crack, and it will take you forever to figure out where it is. Silicone hose is relatively cheap. The T fittings that are provided with the kit should be discarded as fast as possible. Over a relatively short period, the hot underhood temps will disintegrate the nylon, and it will quite literally, turn to dust. Replace them with solid aluminum t-fittings....this will prevent vacuum/boost leak.
You can get them here.... http://www.pspmfg.com/TFittings.html
(Note, you need the first ones...1/8", but you can shove the larger ones into the hose if you want a tighter fit. The larger ones are 5/32")
I also highly recommend you use a vacuum block, and try to eliminate as many Ts as you can. This will not only provide a much cleaner look, but will also be A LOT easier to track down a leak, since every component will have it's own line (this of course means you will need more hose to go around.)
3)Although I have the AUT cooling plate, and you might not, the metal "finishing" piece provided by Greddy causes massive heatsoak in the motor. Our motor is designed to run with a low pressure "weather system." Cold air is directed by the stock radiator place over the top of the motor, which causes the hot air to drop down and get sucked out from under the motor. With that Greddy piece installed, the air from the cooling plate (stock or aftermarket) can't get into the motor bay, causing ALL the hot air to become trapped under the hood. Even if you have a vented hood, unless you have a scoop (like an STI) you are not introducing any cold air into the motor bay. With a vented hood, you are releasing hot air, only to be replaced by more hot air. You need to draw cold air into the motor bay.
Now, I recommend two things, and yes, I've tested this extensively (with and without my tuner.)
a)Get an AUT cooling plate, and REMOVE the stock one. Besides making your motor bay cleaner, the chamber concentrates the airflow VERY well. Even with a small fan, you can feel the air accelerating out of the duct.
b)Also, (I will get a photo of this) right under the #3 in the photo above, you need to cut out a square out of the Greddy metal piece....direcly under the cooling plate's "exhaust". The result is a MASSIVE cold air rush into your motor bay. I will try to shoot a video to show you guys what I mean. It works, and it works VERY well.
4)Heat wrap. While the Greddy stuff is decent, it's a PITA to work with, and looks hideous. Pick up a roll of 1.5" black header wrap from SummitRacing ($50 for a roll) and wrap the AC lines with it. It will take a bit of time to do a nice job, but the end result is a lot nicer. The flash made the wrap brighter than it is. It looks like a factory item in person. IMHO, it's also better at keeping the lines cool. Be careful when you wrap as to not snap the lines.
5)If you don't have a BOV, disregard this part. If you have a BOV, my tuner told me the MAP sensor should remain in the stock location. He moved it back, and I have no CELs. I don't know enough about turbos to explain why, maybe someone a little more seasoned can. He told me the piece that Greddy provides is made to act like a mini BOV, and release the pressure when the throttle body closes, preventing compressor surge. However, my BOV is a Synapse, which eliminates surge, so your BOV might not be compatible with the above.
I will think of something else that I did, and post it up. At the moment, I think that's the basics of it. Hope this helps some people avoid problems that can arise with this kit.
07-12-2008, 11:07 AM
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Nice job, Im also in the process of cleaning up a few odds and ends on my kit before my tune. I think this kit could greatly benefit from a real cold air intake, and the past few days Ive been doing some testing and experimenting on what would work best for that. Hopefully this weekend Ill get something finalized and built, and Ill add a few pics of mysetup with a little writeup to this post if you dont mind. 
07-12-2008, 01:44 PM
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It won't get any more "cold air" than my setup. Even with a tiny jet fan hitting the intercooler, you can feel a huge jetstream of air pouring out of the AUT plate.
07-12-2008, 04:40 PM
#4
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It's always bugged me the way that plate seemed to lock the heat in both top and bottom. Glad you did a test. I'm hacking mine up tonight. 
Bought a Golden eagle vacuum block yesterday. I'm trying to find a good place to bolt it though.
Also: Harbor freight sells those little metal tywraps by the bucket for cheap. They work well for holding on heat wrap. Just make sure you fold the ends over twice when you trim them, they're sharp as hell. Just a suggestion.
Bought a Golden eagle vacuum block yesterday. I'm trying to find a good place to bolt it though. Also: Harbor freight sells those little metal tywraps by the bucket for cheap. They work well for holding on heat wrap. Just make sure you fold the ends over twice when you trim them, they're sharp as hell. Just a suggestion.
07-12-2008, 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by NFRs2000NYC,Jul 12 2008, 01:44 PM
It won't get any more "cold air" than my setup. Even with a tiny jet fan hitting the intercooler, you can feel a huge jetstream of air pouring out of the AUT plate.
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07-12-2008, 10:20 PM
#8
Nice write up and in for pictures of the modified greddy air diversion plate.
Also, you really need to get a better explanation from your tuner about relocating the MAP back to stock position. I'm trying to understand your explanation the best i can, but it makes no sense to me at all. It obviously works, since you aren't getting a CEL, i'm just looking for a better explanation on why that is. I'm wondering if the MAP clamp setup in the Emanage was enough to keep the ecu from throwing a CEL, but maybe that's a question for my former boss.
Also, you really need to get a better explanation from your tuner about relocating the MAP back to stock position. I'm trying to understand your explanation the best i can, but it makes no sense to me at all. It obviously works, since you aren't getting a CEL, i'm just looking for a better explanation on why that is. I'm wondering if the MAP clamp setup in the Emanage was enough to keep the ecu from throwing a CEL, but maybe that's a question for my former boss.
07-13-2008, 03:08 AM
#9
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Thread Starter
Originally Posted by Chris_Lum,Jul 13 2008, 01:20 AM
Nice write up and in for pictures of the modified greddy air diversion plate.
Also, you really need to get a better explanation from your tuner about relocating the MAP back to stock position. I'm trying to understand your explanation the best i can, but it makes no sense to me at all. It obviously works, since you aren't getting a CEL, i'm just looking for a better explanation on why that is. I'm wondering if the MAP clamp setup in the Emanage was enough to keep the ecu from throwing a CEL, but maybe that's a question for my former boss.
Also, you really need to get a better explanation from your tuner about relocating the MAP back to stock position. I'm trying to understand your explanation the best i can, but it makes no sense to me at all. It obviously works, since you aren't getting a CEL, i'm just looking for a better explanation on why that is. I'm wondering if the MAP clamp setup in the Emanage was enough to keep the ecu from throwing a CEL, but maybe that's a question for my former boss.
07-13-2008, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by NFRs2000NYC,Jul 13 2008, 03:08 AM
Like I said, I wish I knew. I emailed him to come into the Greddy threads (especially my other one) and explain some things...haven't heard from him though. I'll try one more time.