Alright so 2011 gave me a pretty much trouble free year of basically 600whp.

This was with the dredded direct port meth setup that Siadam and I came up with but he grenaded and mine stayed together.

In short here is my setup:
pfab top mount equal length
precision billet bb 6262
SCE 2mm HG
Straight methanol no water
A total of 4 coolingmist nozzles each one is mounted in the intake manifold runner.

I made 585whp on a doubled up wastegate spring making 23psi and we didn't touch the boost controller for more.

Heres the catch. The car runs great, I have taken it on 6hr+ cruises. No smoke. No oil consumption. But the car runs much warmer than I am comfortable with. I have tried EVERY possible cooling mod to battle the heat to no avail.

Here is the cooling solutions I tried:
FB aluminum radiator
mishimoto thermostat (didn't make a difference between OEM just took a little longer to get up to temp)
higher pressure rad cap
bleeding the system at least 10 times car level, front end raised, all the various voodoo methods.
changed the ECT (engine coolant temp sensor)
changed to more water
installed an alloycraft cooling plate.
cut away some of my rebar for more air to pass over the intercooler and to the rad

Last but not least the heat in my car works once I first bleed it but then i will lose it within a week of driving.

The car has never boiled over but both with my modifry and my aem datastream it is running much hotter than it has in my previous 4 years of being boosted with a log setup. It is not the cooling fans as even cruising in vacuum on the highway the temperature climbs and climbs.

So long story short I am either led to believe the headgasket has a very minor leak and I should go back to oem or try an oem radiator. These are the only two variables that have changed and should cause more heat in vacuum.

Sorry for the long post but its been a long battle and although the car is still working fine it bothers me.

 

Pictures of the setup

 

I think we're the only 2 direct port WMI S2000s at near 600whp
No problems here either and I DD it.

My money is on your HG. How offen do you need to refill and rebleed?

 

holy hdr! I'd be betting on that headgasket of yours as well.

 

I had that problem on my 1st motor I tried everything except headgasket. If your heater isnt working its most likely your headgasket just change it out or go to oem. I'm 24,000 miles on my 2mm headgasket no issues I'm not pushing 600 though so maybe maybe that's why mine is lasting longer

 

What's the temp?

 

lol, at Soulcoughings HDR comment, haha. Throw the HG away. I blew both of them, and one was blown for a lot longer than I thought. Caused a whole lot of shit to build up on the #1 valves. I made 550ish with Meth @ 16psi, 610 on Q16 @ 20psi. The car would start to break up at 20lbs, so I just ordered a Kenne Bell Boost A spark, see what the car makes @ 25psi on Q16.

Anyway the Point is, get rid of the HG, Its pretty cold out now, but my car runs 185F-195F, when I had the HG it would hang out around 200, and hit 210F after pulls

 

maybe the heater core.

 

Had a US brand diesel in the mid-80's through the mid-90's. Developed a small bleed from a cylinder to the water jacket via head gasket. It would always bleed off gently via the coolant reservoir tank. Other than that tank drying out every other month, no worse issues for years.

Could tell the degree to which the air bleed into the water jacket was developing by opening radiator cap when the engine was cool, then running engine. (The water coming from the engine entered the radiator next to the radiator cap.) A few bubbles a minute, not great, but no disaster; a stream of bubbles going by, time for engine work.

Two traumatic threats in this situation:

1) if the gasket lead suddenly worsens, the pressure inside the water jacket jumps up, components other than the head gasket will need replaced like the radiator when the tubing balloons and bursts, and if you don't catch the resulting overheat in time ... well, you know;

2) engine stops near the beginning of a compression stroke for the affected cylinder, with all valves to the leaking cylinder closed, as the engine cools, the air in this cylinder becomes a partial vacuum, more than a little water is drawn into the cylinder; when you go to start the engine, the vapor that would have compressed just fine is partly replaced with liquid which basically does not compress, BANG ... did you just strip the flywheel gear, blow out the spark plug, crack the head, crack the cylinder wall ... ??? If heaven was kind to you, your battery was weak that day, maybe the engine just wouldn't turn over more than an eighth of a turn or so.

 

Gee thanks

To my defense, I was pushing it very hard, and found the limits of a 90cc nozzle in cylinder 1. Why was I running 90cc in cyl 1 you may ask, it certainly wasn't intended, I was sent 3 180cc nozzles, and 1 90cc nozzle. I didn't catch the mistake, and boom, hole in piston 1.

Had it not been for a small oversight, I'd be rocking a 700+ car right now.

As for your issues, I can't understand why you are having problems, really only thing left is a water pump swap. All I have is a Mishi rad, and 2 slim fans (autozone specials) and I stay cool as a cucumber.

Unless it's that 2mm h/g?