Hello guys,

Well i bought a brand new Precision 62/62 two years ago, 600 miles ( 6 months ) after the turbo was installed ( by a shop ) the turbo goes bad, smoking while idling and bad white smoke from the exhaust pipes, turbo was sent to
Precision under the 1 year warranty, according to them it was due to "too much oil", well i had to pay for 50% of the rebuilt. Turbo goes back to the the car again, with oil restrictor , 1 tuning session, 1k later ( 8 months ), turbo goes bad again, same problem, sent back to precision, this time was "cold shutdowns", they covered the whole rebuilt. Turbo goes back in the car, new manifold, new tune, 1.5k miles ( 10 months ) later, turbo goes bad again, same thing, really bad smoke, smell of burn oil.

The problem is rear seals go bad. I really do not beat on the car, is mainly for just cruising. What should i do guys? new turbo? talk to precision again? What is the turbo big HP guys are using now days?

 

Where is your drain? If its in the pan, thats more than likely the problem. I have had my 6262 JB turbo for over a year and about 1500 miles with no issues at all. I also dont use a restrictor and I have my -8 drain in the girdle. My buddy had the same issues with his 6262 JB and went trough 3 of them and he used to have the drain in the pan at the highest point. I told him to put the drain in the girdle in the beginning, but he didnt listen and 3 turbo's later, he finally did. Not one problem since........

 

Correct, thats where i have my drain. how hard to relocate the drain to the girdle? should i see if precision will rebuilt the turbo again?

 

First, relocate the drain to the girdle and see if the turbo still smokes. Its possible that you havent hurt the seals or bearings yet and doing the drain switch to see if the turbo still smokes or not will confirm. If it still smokes, you will have to rebuild, if not its good to go.

It not hard at all to put the drain in the girdle either. Go between the 3rd and 4th rib from the front of the pan and about 1" up to put your hole in and then tap it for a -8 an to pipe fitting or 1/2" barb to pipe fitting (depends on if you want to use -8 an braided line or 1/2" rubber hose).

[attachment=179il drain in girdle.jpg]

 

I have my -10AN return going to the front of the pan near the crank pulley. No issues with mine. Where at on the pan is your oil return going?

What size restrictor did you put on?

 

Spoolin : i don't have the resources to do it my self, so i will be paying the same shop that been working on my s2k for the past2 years, i guess if i'm paying for the turbo to come out, might as well make sure precision cover the rebuilt, i will have the shop relocate the drain plug too.

 

D1sclaimer: whats the proper size to use, i do not know the size of my restrictor, it was done by the shop.

 

I can tell you now that tap is to low and should be closer to the front of the pan at least above the drain plug as high as possible.


https://www.s2ki.com/s2000/topic/713...d+oil__st__750

 

The only other alternative to putting the drain in the girdle is to have it placed at the front drivers side of the oil pan and all the way at the top. I dont like this area but it has been proven to work also. Its not as good as the girdle, but will suffice.

Where you have it now definitely is your problem. -8 an or -10 an will work well if you go to the girdle. I prefer -8 an so you dont have to drill such a big hole in the girdle and mine has been this way for 8 years with no problems.

 

its bc they are made in china