haha yup like I've mentioned many times above it's a big concern for me but I'm going to give this a shot anyways and see what happens.

Few more pics for you guys:
Fabricated welded and then did a lil polish job on this little remote coolant fill neck that will attach to my strut tower
20160505_183322 by Chad Blixhavn, on Flickr
20160506_140808 by Chad Blixhavn, on Flickr
Congestion corner! Added this catch can I had kicking around down here until I have time to fabricate one that I like.
20160509_165720 by Chad Blixhavn, on Flickr
Hot side is all blasted and ceramic coated.
20160509_183025 by Chad Blixhavn, on Flickr

 

Looks awesome dude!

 

i missed the posts where you mention it being a big concern? i've warned you what will happen. in this arrangement, the vanjens will break- GUARANTEED.

aaron

 

Oh I believe you Aaron, my plan was to see the stress with my own eyes when I start up the motor to bleed the coolant. I already have the other 2 vanjens ready to weld in. I'm just curious and one of those people that like to test things and see it with my own eyes to learn. There's no doubt in my mind that it will break under high engine load. My buddy that did the welding seems to think my engine mounts are stiff enough that it's not going to matter.
What kind of engine mounts were used in the instance you experienced breakage in? Just out of curiosity.

 

Oh I believe you Aaron, my plan was to see the stress with my own eyes when I start up the motor to bleed the coolant. I already have the other 2 vanjens ready to weld in. I'm just curious and one of those people that like to test things and see it with my own eyes to learn. There's no doubt in my mind that it will break under high engine load. My buddy that did the welding seems to think my engine mounts are stiff enough that it's not going to matter.
What kind of engine mounts were used in the instance you experienced breakage in? Just out of curiosity.
[/quote]

I'm a tech lead at Vibrant. I've seen applications like this break in the past with solid engine mounts. There is still a great deal of vibration regardless of engine mount stiffness. You also have thermal growth and contraction happening and when you pair that with a pressurized environment you will exceed the design paramaters of the clamp. If you keep this setup like this you may want to consider upgrading your clamps to our new billet HD clamps that are compatible with the vanjen system so there is no need to change the weld flanges or the union sleeve.

Aaron

 

Right on, thanks for the info. Maybe you can answer another question for me. I've always wondered what the ideal gap distance between vanjen flanges is when you're fabbing up the pipes?
I'll look into the billet clamps

 

when everything is in a relaxed state, ideally 1/8" gap between the faces of the flanges. we prefer to see the joint they are used with to have a degree of motion that you can demonstrate by hand. this allows them to function properly by moving within the range of the clamp freely. by moving freely, they can absorb and transfer vibration between components. when you only have 1 joint between two hard mounted components like an engine and an intercooler, there is a lot of vibration, pressure, elevated heat cycles, being generated between them. without a proper range of motion on a long moment arm like your i/c pipes you are putting all the vibration stress on the singular clamp and the weld at the end tank, which will ultimately cause one of them to fail. if your weld is good, it won't be the one to fail in this instance. think of your arms as your intercooler pipes and your hands are the vanjen clamps connected to your turbo and throttle body- how long would you be able to hold onto those with completely fused elbows and shoulder joints? not for very long before all your fingers lost their grip. your fingers are the vanjen in this anaology. i'd hate to see you break your knuckles.

aaron

 

Thanks again for the pre-warning/help Aaron. I've added an extra vanjen on each side now but sadly I didn't take any pictures because I ripped out the intercooler and sent it in for anodizing. Car should be complete next week, and then just waiting on a tune. In the meantime here's the last of the pictures until I get the fenders back on.

Radiator anodized black:
20160519_180918 by Chad Blixhavn, on Flickr
In place and making some hoses.
20160521_222651 by Chad Blixhavn, on Flickr
And a few teaser shots from backing the car out of the garage and washing the winter dust off...
20160523_125415 by Chad Blixhavn, on Flickr
20160523_125405 by Chad Blixhavn, on Flickr
20160523_125351 by Chad Blixhavn, on Flickr
20160523_125351 by Chad Blixhavn, on Flickr
Peek-a-boo!
20160523_131335 by Chad Blixhavn, on Flickr

 

Interested in how that intercooler performs. What is your HP goal?

 

20160608_194913 by Chad Blixhavn, on Flickr
20160608_195025 by Chad Blixhavn, on Flickr
20160608_195335 by Chad Blixhavn, on Flickr
20160608_195350 by Chad Blixhavn, on Flickr
On 16 psi...
20160611_202309 by Chad Blixhavn, on Flickr
Dyno vid! Sorry I have no idea how to embed it...
[media]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rHvBnenElIE[/media]