PTUNING S2000 Turbo System (Pics, Dyno, Pricing)
I'll start with the final results first. We gained 16whp over the standard open filter set-up on a 428whp baseline at 13psi. The way in which we achieved the results were mostly what I expected, but it may not make sense to some at first.
As we all know, we're only dealing with speed density fueling with the S2K and not the more common MAF fueled cars. All S2K turbo systems out there feed the turbo with some basic sort of cone filter, mesh, or nothing at all. They also have one thing in common and that is that they the air feeds for the turbo are located under the hood, one way or another. The results should apply to just about every turbo system, although the PTUNING airbox was designed for the PTUNING Turbo System.
Now back to what I was saying about the air feed to the turbo....there is no screwing around with a MAF housing to affect the way the ECU fuels (i.e. slightly large MAF housing will spoof the ECU into running leaner fuel mixtures and also more timing). What I mean by all this is that any power that we can hope to gain is purely based on temp and not MAF skewing like what you would find on say a BPU Evo, STi, MS3, etc.
Without rambling on too much more about MAF spoofing, let's just say that we don't have that luxury here. We are simply enclosing the air filter so that the engine sucks in air from outside the engine compartment. To reduce the chances of suctional losses, we designed the airbox as large as we could and we are feeding it from as many locations as we can. We are using not 1, not 2, but rather three 3-inch diameter hoses to feed the large airbox which houses the standard 4" inlet filter.
As we all know, when you take your car to your tuner, the car is tuned with the hood open and with a large fan blowing into front, and in the case of our dyno cell, our giant front fan also blows cool air into the engine compartment. This provides the air filter with all the cool air it needs. The key finding here is what happens when the hood is closed. After all, your car will need to be driven with the hood closed. With this said, let's go on to the data results. The car went on to make around 432whp on 13psi earlier in the morning when it was cooler.
Test Data:
The temp inside the dyno room during the testing was around 93 deg F with fairly high humidity (humidity was not noted). All test results were an average of two runs.
The afternoon baseline averaged 428whp in the hotter dyno room. This is with the hood open and the dyno fan blowing into the engine compartment.
The first test was with the hood closed with no airbox. We let the car go through two engine fan cycles to simulate heat soak. Immediately after the engine fan shut off the second time, we turned on the dyno fan and immediately did a dyno pull. We proceeded to repeat this procedure twice. The results we ended up with was a two run average of 409whp.
The second test was with the hood closed and the airbox in place. Again we let the car go through two fan cycles to simulate heat soak. Immediately after the engine fan shut off the second time, we again turned on the dyno fan and immediately did a dyno pull. We proceeded to repeat this procedure twice. The results we ended up with was a two run average of 425whp.
Not completely certain that we had a winner on our hands, we proceeded to redo the open filter dyno runs and the results were the same with a two run average of 409whp. With the results in hand we were satisfied that our real-world gains of 16whp justifies us putting our cold-air airbox in production.
Now let me go over the results of the temp readings that most of you are probably also interested in.
All AIT readings are from the OEM Honda AIT sensor as read from the FlashPro. We find these numbers to make a lot more sense than the heat soaked readings from the non-DBW S2K's (even with proper AEM AIT calibration).
Room temp: 92 deg F
Open hood, open filter:
Filter inlet temp: 95 deg F
AIT temp before dynorun: 102 deg F
AIT temp after dynorun: 104 deg F
Closed hood, open filter:
Filter inlet temp with engine fan off: 145 deg F
Filter inlet temp with engine fan running: 170 deg F
AIT temp before dynorun: 104 deg F
AIT temp after dynorun: 106 deg F
Closed hood, with airbox:
Filter inlet temp with engine fan off: 97 deg F
Filter inlet temp with engine fan running: 99 deg F
AIT temp before dynorun: 102 deg F
AIT temp after dynorun : 104 deg F
The conclusion to the testing probably seems a bit confusing. After all, the AIT's between all three tests were within 2 deg F at the throttle body. The answer to the 16whp gain lies in the temp/density of the air that the turbo compressor has to start off with. The very hot inlet air affects the compressor efficiency. Using a manual boost controller for the testing we saw about a 1 psi drop-off in boost when the turbo was being fed hot underhood air.
When comparing the boost curve with the airbox vs an open filter and open hood, we saw a 1/4 psi drop in boost and the 3whp drop in power. This was not completely surprising since it would be impossible to design an airbox large enough to replicate the vast size of a filter placed in open air. The fact that we only saw only a 1/4 psi drop on a 430whp tune is very impressive to say the least.
Bottom line, you have to drive with your hood closed. The cold-air airbox retains to hp that you would otherwise lose to heat/reduction in air density.
We are working on finalizing the details of the airbox for production. We will make it happen as soon as we possibly can.
- Toan
Put me on the list for a cold box.
Car gets heat soaked easily in 100+ heat. With the SPAL fan going, it blows hot air straight into the filter inlet. I see 140+ iat temps in stop and go traffic. 200F+ coolant temps. I've been thinking of routing cooling air brake duct hose directly to the filter inlet.




