I just ordered a new primary o2 sensor. Mine reads almost a full point richer than the wideband 6in away. I tried swapping their positions and there was no change in their readouts. I called ptuning and they said it shouldn't make a huge difference between where I have my o2 right now and putting it further up in the downpipe.

 

Just an update to my situation. My primary O2 appears to be fine. I ended up getting another bung welded into the down pipe in close to the same position of the stock header. I also reconnected the secondary O2 and installed it with a right angle defouler to get rid of the check engine light. The wideband and primary read closer to eachother and my massive strim fluctuations are mostly gone outside of a few hiccups hear and there after pulls or rapid throttle inputs. My AFcmd number fluctuates between 14.46 and 14.8. I assume that's changing due to the secondary O2 being active now. I haven't tested it with it disabled yet. I'm trying to not find my solution but never post it like so many other threads I've found on this.

 

Are you on flashpro? My tuner disabled my secondary O2 and only relies on the primary one for tuning etc. My car was tuned on a wideband but now the OEM primary does most of the legwork when it comes to corrections etc. Having the secondary in your equation sounds like a probable cause for your fluctuations. Hope that helps.

 

I am on flashpro. I was having massive fluctuations in my fuel trims as it was trying to chase 14.7 before hooking up my secondary. I read a hondata forum where it said the ecu was always looking for the so2 and that could skrew with fuel trims. I'll try disabling it but leaving it hooked up and see what that does. I think my dead times are still a little off too. I've read multiple things saying use the times for 43.5 psi, 50, 55, 60, 70. 43.5 makes the car idle the best so far but I think it's still off. I'm on a return system with an AP1 FPR, Aem 340, and ID 1050x.

 

I disabled the SO2 and the afrcmd is back to 14.63. I left the heater circuit still enabled, not sure if I should turn that off. The tune is still pretty balls on. I made a couple of tweaks fueling wise but nothing else.

 

was looking at my kit.... whats to stop me from disconnecting the oil return, the one at the inspection hole. sending power to the pump and pumping my oil out for oil changes?

i think i have found a new way to change my earl. going to give it a shot this week.


ps am i the only one who powers the pump, lets it run, then checks the motor oil?

 

I never thought about using that to get the oil out. It used to be nice using a ball valve to drain the oil out. Is there a better way to drain the oil than disconnecting at the drain pan and pulling the hoses to the side?

 

Whats the reason for running the oil pump before checking the oil?

 

the lines, and oil cooler take up liquid. so after an oil change if you fill it to full, it'll suck a decent amount down and change your oil level.

i'm going to pump my oil out from now on, even if i need to add a fresh quart to get every drop out.

 

My dump tube broke off today on an off ramp. It broke right at the flange. That was a pretty long walk back to find it. Once I get the car in the air again I'll post pictures. I assumed the vband had failed but once I found the pipe it had snapped off at the flange. I assume the clamp is still on there. I haven't contacted ptuning yet. I'm gonna wait till I get under there and see what happened.