dont recalll but i belive it was like maybe $100.00. All it is is they look at what I want, look for 2" piping, weld it and bend it to my liking and thats it. Not even an hour for them.

Now, what does take time is taking the compressor housing off, speciall with a 35R. If you are going to let them do this job, then the price will be higher because now they have to take the time to unisntall and install the housing and put everything back together. But, would be kinda senseless to let them do it anyway since they wouldn't know how to work around the tight spaces to take the housing off/on. Unless they specialize in this kinda stuff. But that's why I took my tools with me and did the labor myself at their shop. So, again, all they had to do was find 2" piping, weld it and bend it, then my labor.

 

i too had problems with the coupler burning on the manifold. i found out the reason for this was when i was boosting hard and the motor was torquing (sp?) it would push the compressor housing up against the frame and even with all the bolts tightened, it would rotate the housing to the point where it would be touching the manifold. i recently fized this problem by notching the frame just a little more, and now i have no problems with this. i don't have any pics though. i also have the gt35r

 

[QUOTE=Venomous S,Jul 21 2007, 12:13 PM] dont

 

*shrug* my couple is perfectly fine with my GT35R. I've never had a charge tube blow off either


HOWEVER, I found my first heat related issue today (although it might just be my car starting to show its age). The battery tie down bar thing's paint peeled off Oh well, time for some stainless steel thing I guess

 

it's not the turbo, I have that too. I'm just N/A with 100k+ miles

 

Thats b/c your frame is notched and your coupler doesn't touch the manifold. My frame is not notched and has pretty much no space btwn my coupler and manifold.

Update: I have the coupler on and heat wrap wedged in btwn the coupler and manifold after much sweat and anger forged into a screw driver with the heat wrap. I will see how long this lasts...

 

I notched the frame on my car from day one and I still had the issue as my housing is much too close to the frame. Even notched, I can only clock out so much before the compressor starts hitting the frame and starts making disgusting noises specially on left turns.
Or maybe my engine sits closer to one side of the engine bay...

 

would you mind posting a picture of this mod for me and possibly other future IP customers?

would it be a good idea If I did this priory to install even without knowing that I will have rubbing issues or not?

I'm thinking of taking care of this while it's still out of the car.

 

I would install the kit first and see where everything fits so this way everything else (IC, piping, etc) is set in place.

 

Just because you 'notch' the frame doesn't mean every person that 'nothces' it has the same size 'nothc'. Hence the reason on why certain members do not rub and some do, diff size turbos, diff size notches on the frame, and how much they clock the turbo.

Maybe your engine is closer to one side...too much....torque?