REALLY weird AFR pattern.
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Joined: May 2011
Posts: 279
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From: Marietta, Ga
I agree with camuman. It is probably fault wiring (loose ground?) or faulty pump.
It might sound silly, but is there anyway you can clock the fuel pressure gauge so you can see it from the drivers seat with the hood off? Like I said in my previous post, the faulty pump could support the fuel pressure of an engine at idle but not at load. So as you are changing the fuel pressure with your regulator at idle, the gauge needle would appear to hold X pressure constant. Now if your engine is under load, street or dyno, I would bet you would see differnt story, and see your fp gauge needle fluctuate +/-10-20psi.
If you could clock the gauge, take the hood off and go for a spin around the block. I would advise it as a quick cheap way to eliminate or identifly the cause of your problems. Or if you have the $$$, take it to the dyno and have you or someone watch the gauge.
It might sound silly, but is there anyway you can clock the fuel pressure gauge so you can see it from the drivers seat with the hood off? Like I said in my previous post, the faulty pump could support the fuel pressure of an engine at idle but not at load. So as you are changing the fuel pressure with your regulator at idle, the gauge needle would appear to hold X pressure constant. Now if your engine is under load, street or dyno, I would bet you would see differnt story, and see your fp gauge needle fluctuate +/-10-20psi.
If you could clock the gauge, take the hood off and go for a spin around the block. I would advise it as a quick cheap way to eliminate or identifly the cause of your problems. Or if you have the $$$, take it to the dyno and have you or someone watch the gauge.
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 20,788
Likes: 8
From: location, location
Yeah check the wiring do a voltage test at battery and the pump, i had this issue due to a bad ground.
Basically the fuel pump didnt have enough juice to provide the right amount of fuel when load was put on it.
Solved by adding a relay and thicker wiring direct to the battery.
Basically the fuel pump didnt have enough juice to provide the right amount of fuel when load was put on it.
Solved by adding a relay and thicker wiring direct to the battery.
Thread Starter
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 5,589
Likes: 69
From: New England
Well my Walbro was making noises, the FullBlown 340 is just fine? *shrug* its nice a silent. Slight wine but no weird noises.
O yeah and I am Still waiting on Pressure Regulator Flow Test results from CT-Engineering
O yeah and I am Still waiting on Pressure Regulator Flow Test results from CT-Engineering
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 8,044
Likes: 6
From: South Florida
all walbros whine, all fullblown pumps are quiet. but if your walbro was pulsating, then it wasnt getting steady voltage, and even though the fullblown is quiet, i would bet its not getting steady voltage either, and voltage affects its ability to pump fuel.
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 8,044
Likes: 6
From: South Florida
ill look for it. there is a sweet paint drawing of what to do. basics are
8-10 guage wire
20 amp fuse i think
20 amp relay i think. cant remember the amperage 100%
use stock power wire from fuel pump to power relay. use fused power wire from battery to relay for new power to fuel pump. ground relay to chassis. run new power wire from relay to fuel pump.
its cake. and will assure you clean power to the fuel pump.
8-10 guage wire
20 amp fuse i think
20 amp relay i think. cant remember the amperage 100%
use stock power wire from fuel pump to power relay. use fused power wire from battery to relay for new power to fuel pump. ground relay to chassis. run new power wire from relay to fuel pump.
its cake. and will assure you clean power to the fuel pump.
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