Here's a few photos of a client's retainers (F20C). We caught this one, the 2 weeks ago, another client wasn't as lucky. Dropped a valve!



Without the cams, normally the valve sticks out from the retainer. Notice how you can't really tell the retainer is cracked from the top.

 

Wow, a picture is worth a thousand posts

 

Good post on those pics. This is exactly why I am building the head.

 

Any drawbacks using AP2 retainers on the Supertech dual valve spring kit? Reading some old posts... and the maintenance replacing the Supertech Ti retainers from all the galling every 10-15,000miles would be a PITA.

 

I'm not too sure about using the ap2 retianers with supertech valves. I would assume they would hold up as good as what supertech supplies. As far a ti retainers galling and wearing out, its really not hard to change them out. You wouldn't have to puii the head or anything, just pull the cams and pressurize the cylinders to hold the valve up and compress the spring to change them out.

 

I think everyone who's booting their S2000 should at least change the retainers. Monitoring the valves is also pretty quicky. Just need a new valve cover gasket from time to time. Should be fit in with regular maintenance (spark plugs, oil change, etc)

 

In that case lol...

This is what happens with stock valves:

 

wow. well nm what i said. that thing got ****ed up! guess do the head if you want to avoid that mess above.

 

Depending on the amount of money that you want to spend it may or may not be worth playing. I have had a combo of head's that have been done. I hear everyone throwing parts at this head but who is doing the work? Who is doing to machine work and are they using a flow bench. I have sent my head off to many tuners( Alaniz and several others) that look nice but do not flow worth a crap once they get on the flow bench. I have seen heads loose flow from being touched. Valve guides were replacement but only very carefully as some people have really done a crappy job installing new ones. Someone can hog out the Chambers and also the ports and gain CFM @ areas above .400 lift but kill all other regions. The point of building a head is to increase airflow across a wide band and aid in overall efficiency. Keeping it simple on a turbo application less boost pressure will be need to achieve overall numbers. Spool time as other areas can be improved.

1. Replace intake and exhaust valves. You can run oversized valves but you will need to have new seats installed. I run 1mm Ferrea oversized on both intake and exhaust with copper beryllium valve seats. Remember that the valve seats conduct alot of heat from the valve and CB does it many many times better than a powder seat or cast seat.

1.1 Also I had my pistons custom machined to accept 1mm oversized valves. Checking the overall clearance before showed us that there was not enough clearance to be overall safe and happy with. So really think about this.

2. Actually welding material to the chambers and going back and reworking them is the best way to do it but is also very expensive. Excellence results have come from this including some of the work on my head.

3. A good set of valve springs and retainers are always a good thing.

4. If you seriously do not want to spend $2000.00+ on parts and machine work keep it simple. Do a set of valve springs,retainers and a set of standard valves. If you really want to get into the chambers and ports then you better do it right. Anyone can offer a 3 angle valve job, but how do you know that is whats best. I spent a lot of money getting the last one right because most things hurt and do not help this head.

 

I think its a waste of time and money to port this head unless you're going for 1000 whp. At that time, you would be swapping to a race intake manifold, 3 inch charge piping, etc anyway.

A three angle valve job won't hurt the head flow and is only necessary for correct valve sealing to to head. Why would you say or think a three angle valve job would hurt the head or its flow?