Please scroll down to my last post, as the leak has been already solved out and I am about to remove all the hoses, vacuum lines ect. that remained after removing the air pump. Please have a look at the 2 last posted pictures and reconfirm what parts can be taken out and witch hole needs to be sealed. Please post only if you KNOW.

 

I am not sure on the leaking air, however.... This sounds like what you're hearing is the whistling noise from the secondary air injection system. This is a system that kicks in most often when you first start the car. The whistling noise it makes is completely normal.

I *think* this is what you're referring to here.

 

Sounds like you have your lines crossed to the bypass valve. It would cause that sound your describing. Try to swap the lines going into the valve and see if it stops.

 

is it necessary to run that THING?I never removed the vacuum lines,so I highly doubt it is swapped . do you keep it when you FI the car?

 

It's an open vacuum source, you need to stop the leak.

Since your car has an EMS, none are required anymore. You also won't hear the airpump run as it's not supported by the EMS.

You can remove the entire air injection system. The tank, solenoid, and control valve on the back of the intake manifold. (a block off plate needs to be made and installed when the control valve is removed)

You don't need to T off the BOV line from any of these hoses, run it direct from the intake manifold.

 

First of all, thanks for your input. I am not sure if we talk about the same part though. I am talking about vacuum tank located behind the front subrame, mounted in front of the engine block with 1 vacuum line on each side. This is not the air pump in the right side of the bumper. On the first picture you see a mushroom on the very right side. This is were the line returns into the system.

So I am clear now what lines I AM TALKING ABOUT and will try to describe it again:

On a stock NA car, this vacuum line exits the manifold just before the firewall, runs down the fuel rail, down the engine into a "VALVE ASSY., BYPASS CONTROL " that is leaking air right now and creates that sound. From there the line runs into the vacuum tank located at the back side of the subrame above the front axle and is returning from there running under the fuel rail again into the mushroom to be seen in picture #1 on this site.

My (retarded) question again:

Do I need all this $hit on my car with the turbo OR can I take it all out and run the BOV directly from the manifold like Slowsk2 is saying? I hope he's right
And regarding the air pump, it has been removed during the install of the turbo but I am sure we did not remove any hoses/lines from the manifold nor did we cover anything with a block off plate. Can anyone post a picture covering this area to show me what to do?

Here the whole vacuum system that leaks on my car again:

 

you can remove all of that like slow said

 

What about this "mushroom"

 

You can remove that as well, as long as you build a block off plate and block the opening. Otherwise you'll have exhaust gas coming from the opening.

 

So to tripplecheck everything, I can remove everything conected to the "mushroom" (part # 17 in the picture)

That is:

vacuum line exiting the intake manifold (I have connected the BOV here)
the whole loop of vacuum line including everything that can be seen on this picture


The air pump was taken out but the hose is still in the bumper and it's open.
Is it better to cut this hose short and seal it on the end OR just take of the whole "mushroom", make a replica of part # 18 on this picture


but keeping the hole closed?
I have closed the vacuum line coming from the "mushroom" but the BIG hose going into the air pump is open. The car runs just fine with it, so is there any benefit from taking out the whole mushroom VS blocking all lines from the mushroom but keeping it there (read as sealing the thin vacuum line and the thick air-pump hose)?

Sorry for asking again and again basically the same thing, but I want to make sure I don't srew it up.