Sleeperhatch91

So I purchased a turbocharged s2000. Let me start with saying that I feel like I have perpetually bad luck, and others have even told me this. Anyway the turbo kit was a precision 6262, p fab log manifold, custom v bad downpipe, turbos mart 38mm ultragate, hks ssqbmv, 1000cc injectors, halter pro and greddy front mount, all the ic piping was welded or t bolt clamped together.

The kit ran great from the person I bought it from who is a personal friend..
.anyway I'd been daily driving an impala that was pretty high mileage and planned to move to Florida to be around other family members from Michigan since basically my relatives here....all passed away, part of the bad luck I suppose. Now to try to make a long story short my friend had it, drove it daily through the Michigan late spring and summer and I bought it around mid-the end of july. He had no problems with it and for the first few months, neither did I. I started to notice some weird AFR readings and asked my friend to take a look at it, the car didn't have s boost gauge at this time for a long list of reasons... I bought one but had not been able to install it. I took it to him as we found out it was only making 6 lbs of boost....not 15 where the solenoid was set. I looked around as some things and saw there was a smaller than should be used...I know this is a hotly debated topic. Oil restrictor. Tightening everything back up the female an swivel fitting that connects the the block t slightly cracks and oil sprays all over the person I was using... my 80 year old grandfather's garage. Not only did it do that but by the time I got out of the car with the hood up and saw it, the turbo had been starved of oil and was screwed. Now I go to take everything off and find out the turbo to manifold bolts.... the manifold has 4 studs, we're finger loose.


I ended up buying a new 6262 since this was was a DD and I needed the car back asap, I was also going to have it dyno tuned by a competent guy. He helped me install everything back at my house and once it was together after 3 hours of driving, an hour of driving to his dyno during tuning the car starts breaking up. I look and see that two of the nuts had managed to back their way literally to the end of the studs... these studs had been hi temp loctited and cracked down tighter than a....well really tight. He advises me to take the car home come back next weekend and we will rip the whole turbo out again since he has much better tools in the shop, Itighten the nuts that I can and baby it home. This morning in the day light I find that not only did the nuts loosen themselves considerably again, one of the bolts holding in the 38mm turbos mart ultra gate has backed completely off, fallen off somewhere and the other side is loose as hell.


I'm at my whits end here. This car has been undriveable for almost 3 weeks now and I figured once it was tuned we'd be good, I'd "daily drive the car again". That could be the issue here with this continually happening to bolts and nuts that connect to the turbo at multiple places it just seen my bad luck continues.. the car is becoming a money pit and when it was fine I loved it... boost with the top down, handles great on the tein suspension on the highway... I really don't want to get rid of it, but I am at my wits end. Whose had problems like this and what did you do to remedy them..... I've searched other forums but our engines are not necessarily bhilt like others, how high they rev, oil pressure and I guess how they vibrate.



Thanks in advance for your input.

Sleeperhatch91

Sorry what I meant are nuts that go over the bolts... the manifold has studs that are welded on it that go through the t3 flange and have nuts that go over them

s2kfinesse

Look into stage 8 locking hardware

99SH

Try using Nord-Lock washers. Make sure you select them properly based on the thread pitch of the fastener.

S2K-F8

I agree....I had several issues of nuts backing off etc until I used Nord-Lock washers

NWDyno

I have never had issues with grade 8 hardware.

Sleeperhatch91

Plan is to put a 4 inch flex pipe in the downpipe, stover nuts on top of nor locks, if a damn thing loosens up after that....they're gonna have to talk me off a bridge. Sorry about the grammar of the original post..was all typed on a phone. Thanks for your advice guys.

AlexSobe614

The problem with forced induction is that it is expensive. There is no doubt there. If it becomes too much there is never anything wrong with going to to NA for a while and just enjoying the car like that. Even if you sell the turbo kit it is money in the bank.

Super Nintendo Chalmers

+2. Apparently it's a common issue. I used generic lock washers but once I installed them the problem went away. I did use hi-temp thread locker just to be certain.

Sleeperhatch91

I'm going to be using thread locker, nord lock washers on the studs off the manifold on the bottom side of the turbine flange and then a class 10 stover nuts over top of it, in addition I've purchased grade 10 stench Allen head bolts and nord lock washers that will work to better secure the waste gate to the manifold. I might even double nut the studs with 2 stover nuts. I installed an 8 inch flex pipe into my test pipe right infer the donpipe.... if this thing moves after that I'm going nuts... it's a p fab manifold that at some point someone put studs into so it's sort of like a greddy manifold with studs that go through the holes on turbine flange and are secured with nuts underneath. I might even work some kind of safety wire around them too, but I don't know yet, I think a big part of this was the exhaust systems being so rigid and connected to the turbocharger, all that weight, swinging or bouncing of the exhaust during travel put all that weight and stress on the weakest part...a turbo held to a manifolds studs with what I was using before...regular as ace hardware nuts.