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secondary O2 sensor Fried

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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 10:44 AM
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From: Austin
Default secondary O2 sensor Fried

My secondary O2 sensor got fried and I'm thinking it's because of the extra heat generated by the Vortech. My tailpipes have been black for awhile now .

I went ahead and bought another one. But i don't want this to happen again. It's about $300. Any idea on how to protect it? Should I go ahead and change out the exhaust/headers to perhaps provide a cooler atmosphere? Thanks in advance!
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 10:55 AM
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If you are using a stock exhaust it is part of the prob. You need a single exhaust, to get the hot exhaust gases out quick. I would of never of bought a new sensor, it is going to do the same thing. I had the same prob. So I got a o2 simulator and a 10 watt 13 ohm resistor in place of the sensor. No CEL. No more CAT= More power.


RAT
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 12:48 PM
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s2000rat

i have the same problem too....are you saying you no longer have a secondary o2 sensor but a resistor in place of it along with the o2 simulator

do you have any pics of the resistor in place of the sensor

thanks
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 01:18 PM
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I cut the wires coming out of the o2 sensor hooked the wires to a 10 watt 13 ohm resistor. So now the ecu thinks its working right. Then I bought a o2 simulator from wired speed lab, wired that to the ecu. So my ecu thinks every thing perfect.


WIREDSPEED.COM

Rich
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 02:45 PM
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Something is not right with your secondary O2 sensor system. It could be the sensor, the wiring or the cat itself. I've had the Vortech on the car with the OEM exhaust, then a Toda header, then a test pipe. The O2 sensor looks fine and is still working properly. If you fear that you are cooking the sensor (and I find this hard to believe), keep the cat but do the mechanical O2 simulator to get the sensor further from the hot gas stream.
How do you know you burned up the sensor? Did you get a CEL? What was the code?
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Old Mar 15, 2005 | 08:26 PM
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Exhaust tips are black from soot on every car, The Vortech isn't going to change that. If you remove the Convertor, you will have even more soot than before.

There are several different codes relating to seperate functions of the 02 sensors. The mos common failure is of the 02's heater element. This occurs on NA cars as well, not just SC'd ones. Some of the time, the convertor's catalyst beds break loose and move inside the housing. When this happens the 02 takes a beating and the Heater is usually the 1st thing that fails.
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 12:16 PM
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Thanks for the responses. Turns out that my cat broke as well. I was scared that's what the rattling was. And that probably damaged the sensor. So, What the heck do I do now? I am replacing the CAT (or the part that broke in the CAT, $879) and the O2 sensor (about $300), not covered.

What is the cheapest route I can go to make sure this doesn't happen again, and still stay emission legal in texas? Please give company names that you'd recommend.
Thanks a bunch!
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Old Mar 16, 2005 | 02:37 PM
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The OEM convertor is the most expensive, and most reliable convertor for the car. I've seen numerous high flow and standard use convertors fail not long after being installed. The OEM convertor is also remarkably high flow.

I'd look for a used convertor in the FS forum to fix the car and remain emmisions legal.
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