Me too mate. Currently we have to wait till the engine has been dynoed. We need some measurements on the flywheel area but it's all on the dyno so can't get to it.

So once the engine is ready we'll make some measurements, install the engine plus the transmission, intall rear subframe with the supra diff, make more measurements for the custom DSS parts.

Plan is then to get the car running again with stock drivetrain because we have to order the parts from DSS. That will take some time to arrive. Once that's arrived the new drivetrain will be installed.

 

nice going Yuri

 

Dyno almost ready.... oil pressure is up

 

 

And it's alive!! Damn after 1 year of building and changing shit it's back up.

The dyno is able to monitor alot of things so we'll see everything that's going on. Oil pressure at each rpm for instance, on the graphs as well.

The Swaintech coating is stinking though. That will pass I hope after it's broken in.

More updates on tuning later. For now I'm glad it started and all systems are GO.

 

wow

 

Drooll....


Edit: what it your oil pressure at idle on avarage so far that you know of? Just asking only because I'm concerned about mine.

 

We've got a problem, the engine is overheating fast. Seems like the cold water from the dyno isn't flowing through the engine.
We've bled the system lots of times and no air seems to be in the system. This morning checking if the thermostat (mugen) may be broken.


Testing all settings, dyno setup

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Keqw4WAO7-4


Anyone know how to embed youtube here?

 

good stuff, i want to see how that supra trans will fit.... that would be a sick mod for higher power

 

Did you try squeezing the lines with the dyno's radiator/filling spot open?

Usually, the air does get trapped at the thermostat, causing it not to open. On a car with the engine still in it, normally you would raise the front of the car to get the radiator as the highest spot, allowing the air bubble to travel UP. Massage the hoses and bubbles will be pushed up. Also try cracking the head's bleeder screw and introducing air pressure (via tool or mouth) to the system to force the air out.

Just checking, but you are aware in a stock system with a/c and heat that there are 2 bleeder spots? One by the firewall and one on the head. I'm not sure how muc of this applies to your specific situation though. Good Luck, the outcome will be incredible!