Slick selection for AP1 rear tires
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Slick selection for AP1 rear tires
What is the best tire for the money to run on the AP1 rear tires. I am planning to order a set shortly! I will be changing them at the track so a full slick is fine for my application.
Any pros or cons to a full slick vs a radial?
Some choices I have narrowed down:
26x10.5 - 16 (Radial)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MTT-3793R/
26x10.5 - 16 (bias ply)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MTT-3792/
28x11.5 - 16 (bias ply)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MTT-3796/
Also what diameter would be better for the 1/4 mile?
Any pros or cons to a full slick vs a radial?
Some choices I have narrowed down:
26x10.5 - 16 (Radial)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MTT-3793R/
26x10.5 - 16 (bias ply)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MTT-3792/
28x11.5 - 16 (bias ply)
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MTT-3796/
Also what diameter would be better for the 1/4 mile?
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: Canada
I ran the ET street radials they hooked awesome in the 26x10.5, A taller tire will make your gears longer if you are trying to avoid switching gears close to the end. Depends on how fast you think you are going to go.
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Tires with Radial construction act differently than bias ply tires. Using a Radial in the rear allows me to use a front radial tire without the constant risk of crashing. A radial tire in front with a bias ply rear is dangerous and the quick reacting front tires can upset rear bias ply tires and can (and do very often) cause cars to spin and hit the wall. My car feels very stable now that it is aligned correctly.
As far as outright traction and going fast at the track, we would still recommend running a bias ply rear tire with a skinny front tire setup on racing wheels. It is a better platform to race on and you will go quicker and be more consistent. Plus that wheel/tire package would be considerably lighter.
As far as outright traction and going fast at the track, we would still recommend running a bias ply rear tire with a skinny front tire setup on racing wheels. It is a better platform to race on and you will go quicker and be more consistent. Plus that wheel/tire package would be considerably lighter.
Exactly right and well said. Alot of guys throw on a set of full out slicks on the rear and leave their street tires on the front, and end up swapping corners with the wall.
On a fwd vehicle it's not as big of a deal, but on a rwd car, it can cause some serious problems.
I'll be in the same boat come spring time, I'm always curious what suggestions I read in these sorta posts, and what sorta rims people are fitting them on.
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From: Trollywood
Do you guys want to share the rear alignment spec you use? The car is acting like a snake and pretty scary at high speeds.
I´m using MT ET Steet Radials 295/50-16 and love them but had to work the fenders a lot...
I´m using MT ET Steet Radials 295/50-16 and love them but had to work the fenders a lot...
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From: Tampa, FL
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From: Trollywood
Originally Posted by B5254T4' timestamp='1313083546' post='20868921
Do you guys want to share the rear alignment spec you use? The car is acting like a snake and pretty scary at high speeds.
I´m using MT ET Steet Radials 295/50-16 and love them but had to work the fenders a lot...
I´m using MT ET Steet Radials 295/50-16 and love them but had to work the fenders a lot...
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thats a big f@#ker for only 470whp. cft runs 255-50-16 mt et radials and puts a shit ton of power down on them. food for thought.
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From: Trollywood
Originally Posted by B5254T4' timestamp='1313083546' post='20868921
Do you guys want to share the rear alignment spec you use? The car is acting like a snake and pretty scary at high speeds.
I´m using MT ET Steet Radials 295/50-16 and love them but had to work the fenders a lot...
I´m using MT ET Steet Radials 295/50-16 and love them but had to work the fenders a lot...
thats a big f@#ker for only 470whp. cft runs 255-50-16 mt et radials and puts a shit ton of power down on them. food for thought.
And that´s just my street tune, will add more next week.
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I'm no drag racer but if logic serves, you would want to get as close to zero camber and toe in the rear for improved traction, stability and least drive resistance, or even the front for that matter, although some front camber should aid in relieving some rolling resistance, which could be sacrificed since its not a drive wheel.