Solution to heat issues
11-05-2006, 07:34 PM
#21
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Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: Norwich VT
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The wires just sit on top of the wheel well. If you wanted to secure them you could drill holes and use those little annyoing white tab/zip tie hold downs along the frame. As far as the battery cables go we just connected wire to where the old terminal was and ran it back to the trunk. Only diffirence is the car now takes a half a second longer to start (barley noticable). I'm not sure if this is because of the current flow or the new battery since i did both at the same time.
11-19-2006, 04:27 PM
#24
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Originally Posted by SoCalIsMyLife,Nov 5 2006, 02:39 AM
how are you guys venting the non dry cell batteries? I guess if you open the trunk once in a while you should be fine right?
In my case I got a dry cell, which there is no chance for fumes but the track does still require a battery box, and if your batter is in the trunk then you have to have a on/off switch on the trunk
11-19-2006, 05:39 PM
#26
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my car is sitting in the shop right now getting the exact samething it is a bit of a PITA to do but worth it all the way and i agree the extra hassle of taking off the wheel and the inner liner is worth the peace of mind and the clean look i also got rid of the AC the only problem i have now with the manifold is the oil cooler lines but i just wrapped them up nice and they should be fine
11-19-2006, 05:52 PM
#27
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Please take some pics of it when you get it back. I will be repainting the engine bay next winter when the engines out so it will look amazing.
And on a side note the Hypertune's going on right now.
And on a side note the Hypertune's going on right now.
11-20-2006, 03:12 PM
#28
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glad you got your hypertune i didnt get mine and ended up cancelling my order what you going to do about the fuel rail problem? run a side feed? i got my motor out of the car now and everything is looking good just hope when i drop it back in there wont be no clearance problems and all the wiring is ok
