So i am installing the stg 2 kit, and the instructions say i should be able to grap the belt with my pointer finger and thumb and be able to turn the belt 90'. If i leave the tensioner at that loose of a setting, a can litterally grab the belt and wiggle it 2.5-3" of deflection.

How do you actually set the tension? This method makes no sense.


also, the oil feed fittings were installed in opposite spots when i got the sc out of the box. had to switch the plug to the drivers side and oil inlet fitting to the pass side of the sc. and when i went to install my drain line, the drain line comes out the side of the sc and not perpendicular to the cross-member at all. (SEE PICS)

there are 2 MASSIVE hex plugs that are in the body of the sc around where the oil return fitting is currently( one above it and one below it). could they just have put the fitting in the wrong slot too and i just need to unscrew the hex plug thats at the very bottom and put my oil return fitting in there?

kinda lame that all this is incorrect and the instructions say nothing about it.







help me out guys!

Thanks.

 

Make sure your actually only turning it 90 degrees and not 180. You should be pretty good. better to have it a little loose to start with then too tight. You will get a feel for it eventually. But the 90 degree rule of thumb is generally pretty accurate.

 

Ive noticed a lot of incosistancy from the belt being in the odd folded up shape from being in its little box. Its like it wont move an inch, then i manually turn the sc pulley and all the sudden its loose as a hooker and i can move it all around. So, i just tightened the tension to where it feels snug, but still has more side to side play in it than the oem serpentine belt.

 

edited first post for drain tube drama now. grrrr

 

Your feed looks correctly positioned.

Drain looks like it's in the wrong place. There should be a port at the very bottom (pointed straight down) that's hard as f*ck to get at. Drain line should come straight out the bottom, down past the backside of the support brace, and then curve around to hit the oil pan.

To test belt tightness, stand on the driver's side of the car by the left front wheel. Stick your right arm in between the aftercooler & engine, beneath the silicone coupling that feeds air into the throttle body. Slide your hand forward until you can just barely reach the belt. It's not easy to reach but gets easier with practice. Now grasp the belt between thumb and pointer finger and try to twist it. By now you should be pretty uncomfortable, and if you can twist more than 90 degrees then it's too loose. You should be trying reasonably hard to twist it, not giving it all the strength you can muster.

There should definitely not be any play (movement) of the belt against the pulleys. I had a hard time even getting mine over the lip on the pulleys to install it in the first place. (This also gets easier with practice.) The main SC pulley and the crank pulley are grooved, so it shouldn't move much at all once it's tight and you've turned the engine over a few times to get it all seated.

Don't forget you have to loosen the nut on the SC idler pulley before turning the threaded mechanism to adjust belt tenstion.

 

Old pic but it shows the position of the feed on my Novi 1200.

 

Not sure if you can tell from this angle, but this is where the drain line should go. I believe you have it plumbed into the port that's just at the top of my pic.

 

Nice. So i have to pull the sc back off and remove the oil drain fitting and put it in the spot where there is currently a block off plug directly at the bottom. If i would have left the oil inlet where it was on the other side, i woupd have needed an oil line twice the length of the one supplied.

I wonder why the fittings were in random places on this sc? Sos doesnt say anything about rearanging them, yet, i have to do both. :-/

I think ill start it up and let it idle a while for the belt to "even out" and then ill reset the tension.

 

I had to reverse mine too. My guess is that Paxton ships the blowers that way and SOS might have forgotten that they had to reverse it for this orientation. (Or maybe Paxton changed their methods after SOS began making these kits.)

Also, be VERY CAREFUL with that little brass drain plug that is used to plug one of the smaller ports. A few of us have snapped the head off it, just barely trying to snug it tight.

If you start it up with the drain in that position, the SC is gonna be full of oil when you take it off because it's not draining out the bottom. I wouldn't let it run for very long that way, and would probably tilt it for a while during removal to get the oil out.

I hope you haven't put oil in the engine yet, because the easiest way to remove/install it is to disconnect the drain from the oil pan. It's easier to install the drain line while the SC is out of the car because space is so tight and awkward down there.

 

yea, when I was inspecting my blower for the first time before installation, I noticed the drain plug was in wrong, and called SOS to confirm...they get them that way from Paxton and you have to move it. There's no torque spec, either...so not too loose and not too tight

I think putting the hose on fitting while the blower is in the car was the hardest part of the install (IMO).