SOT MP62 to TVS 900
I never liked the original way the air filter was mounted so close to the exhaust manifold, so I really liked the idea of the duct and air box to provide some cooler air. I always wanted to cut a cool looking hole in the hood too.
My one update, looks like the pulley will take longer than I thought. ASP is very busy so they gave me a 3-4 week time frame and it will be a few weeks before I can post any results at all.
But on the positive side, they will have the specs from my pulley on file so the few of us who have SOT based kits can call them and get a cheap pulley made in a size to your liking pretty easily by just giving the diameter you want and they can make it.
But on the positive side, they will have the specs from my pulley on file so the few of us who have SOT based kits can call them and get a cheap pulley made in a size to your liking pretty easily by just giving the diameter you want and they can make it.
I was surprised at your first time estimate from ASP. Usually the summer is very busy for them and your second time estimate is more consistent with what I've experienced from them. Their products though are excellent.
New pulley installed, bracket improved over my original effort and car running smooth. ASP racing did very nice work. I have not been really kicking it because I had the battery disconnected and the car is still ironing out the fuel trims and I have a couple O2 sensor connections held together with electrical tape until I switch ECU's..
Over the weekend I am swapping enigne management to Haltech and heading for a tune on Monday if I get it installed well enough to limp it over to the tuner. I will report then. Wish me luck.
It is still very impressive from the refinement aspect over the MP62, much quieter and smoother. Feels like more of an OEM setup that the original. It has been giving me a little more whine with the larger pulley and faster blower speed, but it is pretty subtle compared to the MP.
Over the weekend I am swapping enigne management to Haltech and heading for a tune on Monday if I get it installed well enough to limp it over to the tuner. I will report then. Wish me luck.
It is still very impressive from the refinement aspect over the MP62, much quieter and smoother. Feels like more of an OEM setup that the original. It has been giving me a little more whine with the larger pulley and faster blower speed, but it is pretty subtle compared to the MP.
Well sure, I guess. The car is running pretty well except for a couple hiccups. I wish I had a final dyno sheet because it is now running really strong, pulls like beast. However, after taking it to a local tuner who did a swell job getting it to run great under boost, it has been back three times to try to fix small issues which I am now convinced he has no idea how to deal with them.
The car still hunts for idle when cold, he could not seem to fix it. The car still cranks forever to start, he does not seem to know how to fix it. It still sometimes fades into the high tens cruising on the freeway at 65 mph, and he does not seem to know how to fix it. He had the car a total of about three weeks over the course of its four stops there.
He seems like a decent guy but after four tries, not driving it most of the summer, and $1300 at his shop, I have run out of money and time for the near future and am just driving it as is. It runs pretty well except for these few issues which a couple I have found "how to's" on the internet for the long cranking and hunting idle and will try them when I have time. But with my foot on the throttle it runs perfect under boost and I need stickier tires.
The car was flatlining and peaking on the dyno at 6800 rpm at 290whp. If the line kept climbing straight it looked (if memory serves) that it would have made between 330 and 340 rwhp at 6 psi and about 205 lbft straight across the board.
I tracked the dyno flatline down to low water in the intercooler creating high intake temps. It started full at some point some water came out and the heat exchanger was half full. Never saw any sign of leakage but a couple clamps could have been tighter. Intake temps are far cooler and the car pulls hard and probably now has room for more timing and a lower VTEC, but right now I am having fun just driving it. The intake elbow just passed the intercooler used to be too hot to grab and hold after a drive and now it is cool enough to hold onto after a hard run. I am seeing about 30 degrees lower intake temps on the laptop when it was hooked up than before but have yet to get the retune.
Don't know when I will get back to the dyno to have someone else just top off the tune under boost and add a little timing. Maybe next month, maybe next summer. That is probably a disappointment but I am actually going to try a pull or two video and post just for demonstration. Maybe by next week. Dyno will come when the new home improvement is paid for. $4k into the car this summer with new engine management, injectors and tuning, and had to move onto other things.
I would say this, the SOT kit came with a 5x6 PWR barrel which ran a little hot with an MP62. With the TVS900 it runs cooler, but the 5X8 or the 5X10 barrel would have been a MUCH better choice. I don't know where it will top out, but I would go out on a limb and say 340 seems reasonable. A longer barrel intercooler and maybe more than that. The whine sounds sweet and I will try to get a video up soon.
Only one addition to this tired old thread. Monkeying around today and adding a larger intercooler. Probably overkill, but since the hotside roots kit picks up intake air over the header, overkill on intercooling is a good thing just for giggles. So I blew $800 switching from the 5X6 PWR barrel to the 5X10 and moved the IAT sensor from the manifold to the dummy throttle body just after the barrel.
I have hopefully my final dyno on the 22nd and will post my result if anyone is curious. My original Haltech tuner could never get the issues squared away after having it in his shop four times. Dunno if this is related, but the internal map on the haltech is plumbed and activated in the software. However unhooking the stock map sensor(which should now be ignored), the car will not start. I don't know if it is possible for the computer to be seeing two signals and getting messed up, but he could only describe the vacuum readings he was seeing as "weird" when he could not figure out the rich conditions. My AFR's fade into the 10's and 11's cruising on the highway at 65 sometimes and mileage has gone from 24 with EMU to 19 with Haltech. Don't know why it is supposed to be reading the internal MAP sensor, but still dependent on the stock MAP but maybe a key setting on the Haltech is wrong and the tuner had no clue.
Wish me luck with the new guy.
I have hopefully my final dyno on the 22nd and will post my result if anyone is curious. My original Haltech tuner could never get the issues squared away after having it in his shop four times. Dunno if this is related, but the internal map on the haltech is plumbed and activated in the software. However unhooking the stock map sensor(which should now be ignored), the car will not start. I don't know if it is possible for the computer to be seeing two signals and getting messed up, but he could only describe the vacuum readings he was seeing as "weird" when he could not figure out the rich conditions. My AFR's fade into the 10's and 11's cruising on the highway at 65 sometimes and mileage has gone from 24 with EMU to 19 with Haltech. Don't know why it is supposed to be reading the internal MAP sensor, but still dependent on the stock MAP but maybe a key setting on the Haltech is wrong and the tuner had no clue.
Wish me luck with the new guy.
Only one addition to this tired old thread. Monkeying around today and adding a larger intercooler. Probably overkill, but since the hotside roots kit picks up intake air over the header, overkill on intercooling is a good thing just for giggles. So I blew $800 switching from the 5X6 PWR barrel to the 5X10 and moved the IAT sensor from the manifold to the dummy throttle body just after the barrel.
I have hopefully my final dyno on the 22nd and will post my result if anyone is curious. My original Haltech tuner could never get the issues squared away after having it in his shop four times. Dunno if this is related, but the internal map on the haltech is plumbed and activated in the software. However unhooking the stock map sensor(which should now be ignored), the car will not start. I don't know if it is possible for the computer to be seeing two signals and getting messed up, but he could only describe the vacuum readings he was seeing as "weird" when he could not figure out the rich conditions. My AFR's fade into the 10's and 11's cruising on the highway at 65 sometimes and mileage has gone from 24 with EMU to 19 with Haltech. Don't know why it is supposed to be reading the internal MAP sensor, but still dependent on the stock MAP but maybe a key setting on the Haltech is wrong and the tuner had no clue.
Wish me luck with the new guy.

I have hopefully my final dyno on the 22nd and will post my result if anyone is curious. My original Haltech tuner could never get the issues squared away after having it in his shop four times. Dunno if this is related, but the internal map on the haltech is plumbed and activated in the software. However unhooking the stock map sensor(which should now be ignored), the car will not start. I don't know if it is possible for the computer to be seeing two signals and getting messed up, but he could only describe the vacuum readings he was seeing as "weird" when he could not figure out the rich conditions. My AFR's fade into the 10's and 11's cruising on the highway at 65 sometimes and mileage has gone from 24 with EMU to 19 with Haltech. Don't know why it is supposed to be reading the internal MAP sensor, but still dependent on the stock MAP but maybe a key setting on the Haltech is wrong and the tuner had no clue.
Wish me luck with the new guy.









