I have that stubby antenna so radio service sucks for me. I just connect my phone to the radio I have and use Spotify or Pandora to listen to music through the car speakers. I don't even worry about saving radio presets at all. That kill switch sounds like a good idea, but do you do that when you take the car somewhere? How would the alarm work without battery power?

 

Ok so I bought a new battery this morning from Auto Zone, Duralast Gold. Tested it as soon as I got home and it read 12.6v



Installed it on the car and it read 12.9v



Got the car started and idling it is at 14.8.



Video of the car starting, click the picture.




At the suggestion of the tuner, he said to remove the digital voltage reader, so I also did that and went back to a normal battery terminal. I took a picture of what the car reads while idling with the digital gauge removed. I'm not quite sure why that digital gauge was reading .3v higher though. It did that with the last battery as well.




I still plan to take my car to have the cold start parameters looked at though. I drove the car to wok today since it is 78 degrees out. I'm just hoping it fires up when I got to leave, but brought jumper cables with me just in case.

 

I think you'll find the CCA's of that battery is down on the spec. I just went through the same thing with my AEM powered car.

 

It may be worthwhile for you guys to upgrade you big 3. I had similar issues and just changing the ground strap from the negative terminal on the battery made a big difference in how well the car starts.

 

I just wanted to give an update as to what my starting issue was in case anyone comes across this thread in the future. So i dropped my car off at the shop that installed my KW kit. Initially he found that the negative battery terminal wire was kinda fried. I assume this happened when the positive digital battery terminal made contact with the hood causing the car to ground out and heat up all the wiring and the battery. He replaced the wire and everything seemed ok. The tuner was due in the next day to take a look at the cold start parameters of AEM as well. In the meantime he was driving my car around trying to duplicate the non-starting issue and of course he could not replicate the issue I was having. After the tuner came and adjusted some cold start parameters, the shop owner decided to take the car for a final drive. After the drive he shut the car off and tried starting it again immediately and the car wouldn't start. The tuner plugged his computer back in and they found that the crank position sensor was reading erratically and causing an error, which as happening when the car was warmed up. He replaced the crank position sensor and kept the car for the next few days to drive around and start it up as much as possible and didn't have a starting issue the rest of the week. I picked my car up today and drove it 25 miles so it was nice and hot and when I got home, I shut it off, and then I immediately started it back up a few times and everything was fine. It still takes a little more time to crank and turn over, but that is due to the AEM EMS needing to sync.








Cliff Notes:
Replaced burnt Negative battery terminal
Crank position sensor was reading erratically and was replaced