Stock Knock Sensor Reliable?
No problem!
Weird indeed. Completely OEM ECU would usually go into limp mode and heavily retard timing everywhere. When that happened to me the car was gutless with like 50HP until I replaced severed OEM knock sensor. (OEM ECU with Emanage)
Get that new knock sensor installed and run a few more logs to see what your knock counts are like. Then take the belt off and do the same? Rule out that it's the belt that way.
Also worth checking motor mounts. Both of mine were shot and were causing issues for sure. With S2000 you can't even really tell when they're bad unless you breaker bar the motor and watch it lift.
Edit: Heads up on the fueling when you remove the belt, with Comptech SC you're entering positive pressure aka 1PSI+ of boost at roughly 28-32% TPS... so keep an eye on fueling even though I think your closed loop should correct for most of it.
Weird indeed. Completely OEM ECU would usually go into limp mode and heavily retard timing everywhere. When that happened to me the car was gutless with like 50HP until I replaced severed OEM knock sensor. (OEM ECU with Emanage)
Get that new knock sensor installed and run a few more logs to see what your knock counts are like. Then take the belt off and do the same? Rule out that it's the belt that way.
Also worth checking motor mounts. Both of mine were shot and were causing issues for sure. With S2000 you can't even really tell when they're bad unless you breaker bar the motor and watch it lift.
Edit: Heads up on the fueling when you remove the belt, with Comptech SC you're entering positive pressure aka 1PSI+ of boost at roughly 28-32% TPS... so keep an eye on fueling even though I think your closed loop should correct for most of it.
Just found that very interesting thread: I read and understood all your instructive conversation, thanks guys
I am also trying to adjust my tune like FasUnicorn does.
I have an AP1 with TTS Supercharger (Rotrex C30-94) pushing only around 9 psi at 8800rpm redline.
My car was remote tuned, and my tune only put like 15° of IGN ADV at 9.5 psi and 17° at 7.5 psi . My real operation point is in between these.
I am not trying to get the last few HPs, but I think I have quite a wide range of optimization...
I am also trying to adjust my tune like FasUnicorn does.
I have an AP1 with TTS Supercharger (Rotrex C30-94) pushing only around 9 psi at 8800rpm redline.
My car was remote tuned, and my tune only put like 15° of IGN ADV at 9.5 psi and 17° at 7.5 psi . My real operation point is in between these.
I am not trying to get the last few HPs, but I think I have quite a wide range of optimization...
Just found that very interesting thread: I read and understood all your instructive conversation, thanks guys 
I am also trying to adjust my tune like FasUnicorn does.
I have an AP1 with TTS Supercharger (Rotrex C30-94) pushing only around 9 psi at 8800rpm redline.
My car was remote tuned, and my tune only put like 15° of IGN ADV at 9.5 psi and 17° at 7.5 psi . My real operation point is in between these.
I am not trying to get the last few HPs, but I think I have quite a wide range of optimization...

I am also trying to adjust my tune like FasUnicorn does.
I have an AP1 with TTS Supercharger (Rotrex C30-94) pushing only around 9 psi at 8800rpm redline.
My car was remote tuned, and my tune only put like 15° of IGN ADV at 9.5 psi and 17° at 7.5 psi . My real operation point is in between these.
I am not trying to get the last few HPs, but I think I have quite a wide range of optimization...
With that out of the way, I can tell you that I am running 19 degrees of timing @ 9.5 PSI @ ~11.5 AFR, but I get that boost at 6500 RPM. I am running 20.5 degrees @ 7.5 PSI @ 5800 RPM/
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