If you cannot find what you're looking for to get you a reliable 260-280whp and are able to go up a class in terms of power, let us know. We offer a track worthy turbocharger system with a wide powerband and excellent transient response. However, the minimum power level will probably be in the 350-370whp range on low boost running pump gas.

- Toan

 

Slowteg is right on the money. It is a HP/wght class. I did look into the NA route and K24 swaps briefly. Briefly because they are very expensive and I think it is really stressing the motor. I also ran across the option of dropping a V8 in these cars, but that just doesn't seem right. I've seen S2000s run in ST2 with turbos but they are making around 400 whp. Which I could do, but I was really wanting to run in ST3 and at a lower boost I think it would be more reliable. Again going back to my turbo A4 days (see original post). I just wasn't sure if it was possible to get to my desired number after looking at the "power chart" on here. It seemed to me you pipe up a turbo and it automatically makes 350whp. The car does have an e-manage piggy back on it (I bought it that way). I also have a dyno sheet from the previous owner. It says 241whp, but it is a dynapack dyno?????? I don't think that number is accurate since it's a stock motor. I guess the next step is to find a good tuner in the Midwest to talk to about a set up to hit my numbers. Any suggestions???

Dagou, that's why I labeled this thread stupid question. After the build was done on my A4 I took it to an AWD dyno shop (everybody knows what the most common cars are for AWD tuners) the first pull said 283 at the wheels. They seemed disappointed. When I told them we needed to lose a LOT of power they looked at me like I had 3 eyes.

And my GF has pretty big ---s. Quite a bit bigger than my wifes

 

You can definitely cap it at ~280whp, you just want to make sure you don't get too big of a turbo. Here's a dyno of a greddy kit on an f20c (which uses a td04 something (don't know mitsu turbos) but it's in the garrett t25 size family). This is at 12-13psi and with an IC. Drop it to low boost and no IC, and you should be able to stay at or under 280whp no problemo.

http://www.evans-tuning.com/dynos/20...240tq-aem-ems/

 

That dyno is not a good exammple because my car was running lean and the stock ecu was pulling ignition timing to combat that.

To the OP, first you must find out the limit of hp you can run. the cheapest thing to do is pick up a older comptech n1000 sc system and run it as is with approx 260-285whp. If you want more mid range trq you could put a small pulley on the blower and have a turbo wastegate welded onto the aftercooler to limit boost pressure to 7 or so psi. You would still peak at under 300whp but you wohld pick up alot of midrange because 7psi would hold from 4 or 5k rpm all the way to redline.

Too much info?

Feel free to pm me with any questions


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Now that's a torque curve!! No intercooler? Wouldn't that cause major heat issues in a track application?


I retract that question. Thinking back to my A4 days, plumbed oil is what cools the turbo itself. Hhhmmm now I made need an oil cooler.

 

I would just build a high compression 2.4 and call it a day

 

Yep, there are plenty of ways to skin this cat. I would hands down go FI, I wouldn't bother with an NA build. There are plenty of low boost turbo kits that run no intercooler (less lag as well). Low boost should be fine w/o an intercooler, just keep an eye on IAT's. You'll definitely want to plan for an oil cooler.. This year I saw ~260F oil temps on my ap2 with ambient temps in the high 80's.

 

Due to the way NASA classifies only peak power (which is typically realized at the very end of the rev range), a turbocharger or positive displacement supercharger can be ideal to produce a very large low and mid range gain most beneficial for road race use. The twin scroll ScienceofSpeed TS-Max turbocharger system can be configured to meet your goals. Feel free to call us if you'd like to discuss options.

 

I would strongly consider a n1200 blower and 3.2 or 3.0in pulley with a fmic and a wastegate to hold boost to 7psi. This way you do not have to work about high iats, oil temps (as much), heat from turbos, or turbo lag.

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