Yep, Mugen is correct. The OEM ECU just needs to see a load there.

 

the vortech sc thread's pictures ain't work .. . ..

 

I can confirm this as correct! No need for a separate 20 Ohm, 10W resistor circuit if the stock narrowband is left connected and then zip tied out of the way. Just need to make sure to snip the primary o2 sensor wire after the tap for the narrowband emulation from the wideband.

 

Pin C16 on the stock ECU White wire

And I recommend to cut and wire in a set of male/female quick disconnects as a safety precaution.

Just in case you wide band ever fails or starts sending erroneous signals to the stock ECU.

With the quick disconnect in place you can force your stock ecu into protection mode at any time by disconnecting this one wire.

 

^ Unfortunately this will not matter since the narrowband isn't in the exhaust anyways. If any component in the wideband (monitor and/or sensor) fails, the car will go in limp mode no matter what.

 

The Stock NB is not in the exhaust but you are feeding a narrowband signal that originates form the WB controller to the stock ecu to simulate the stock NB voltage


not necessarily true

As an example (just one of many)
Under light throttle/cruising
Say the actual A/F is 17.0 bit the wideband is reading/sending out a voltage equivalent to 14.7.
The stock ECU is happy because it thinks that the A/F is correct and will not go into limp mode unless another condition is the result of the actual lean condition like a misfire being above the requirement to put the stock computer into open loop/protection.

You would never even know unless you have multiple redundant ways to determine A/F ( ) or you feel a difference in the performance of the car.

Hence the reason I always wire up a wideband so at any time the owner can force the car into protection/open loop if something just does not feel right despite the gauges reporting that everything is ok.

 

Just as a background check I have been tuning and building cars for many years.
Classical education BS ME and have many years working in the
Reliability and Failure Analysis
Systems Engineering
Aerospace engineering fields
I have worked on some of the most advanced systems in the world Space Shuttle; Mil Satellites/Pograms just to name a few.

Trust me on wiring in a quick disconnect on the narrowband. Better safe than sorry. Hopefully you will never need this functionality but if you need it could save your motor.

 

I didn't mean to question your credentials or methods. I just didn't see a point in swapping in the stock narrowband connection if the wideband fails. I must have misread though, because it sounds like you are only referring to disconnecting the wideband, but not reconnecting in the narrowband. I agree with this statement, but I wonder if it matters if the stock narrowband needs to be reconnected for the ecu to protect itself. I would think "no," just because in my current configuration it will always read stoichiometric since it's in the air and this can't be good like you pointed out.

 

Correct you just disconnect this connection and do not connect it to anything
ECU sees open circuit and goes into open loop


actually it would read greater then 20.0A/F :

The only disadvantage of just tying up the O2 is if you ever return the stock to stock the o2 may be damaged by the amount of moisture/dirt/dust it has been exposed to.
I tied mine up because I could not find the correct resistor in time for the next race.
And it has been up there ever since.

 

I do have a plastic cap that came with the wideband I could put on the end oft he narrowband to help protect it from the elements, but it might melt to the tip. How do I know this? I had an o2 simulator installed on the Evo and proceeded to wrap the end with electrical tape thinking I would protect it. 10k miles later I reverted the exhaust back to stock and had to literally scrape the bubbled up tape off the tip in order to reuse the narrowband. Lesson learned... the tips of o2 sensors get hot!