Supercharger checklist!
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Joined: Dec 2007
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Supercharger checklist!
Hey guys, picked up a used comptech supercharger from a buddy a couple weeks ago. After getting every thing sorted and cleaned up, now is the time to figure out what else is needed to make it all work 
Anyways, I plan on maxing out this blower (Novi1000) on a 3.2" pulley (maybe 3.0" havent decided yet) so I'm hoping to get some input on what all is missing. I'm pretty sure there's just some small things like hardware, isolator bushings and bolts that are missing after checking out the checklist.
I'll obviously be running my AEM 1052 EMS and have a wideband and a serial gauge I'll be running, so the ECM / FPR etc. isnt needed
Heres the pics of the set up so far: (intake filter and air box aren't pictured but I have them)
The oil feed line has a small leak, so I need to replace that.
I'm missing the really long 10x160mm bolt, think it's part #800-4020
plus 3 of the isolator bushings, however I dont know if that includes the rubber piece PLUS the two metal pieces or if those are 3 different pieces all together, considering CTE wants $25 each them, I'm hoping that includes the entire assembly, both metal pieces + the rubber.
I've already got the modified crank pulley so I won't need to swap that out either.
Basically I'm looking for some insight on what little pieces can't be found laying around in a shop or at your local hardware store, and anything big I may have over looked like vacuum lines / hoses etc. The pic of the full kit on the CTE website is possibly the smallest picture ever taken, so it isn't much help.
Also, for the high boost set up, I plan on running a walbro 255, 3bar map, ID1k's, ACT HD PP + OEM clutch and am currently looking at larger heat exchangers + a bosch cobra water pump (Ebay, bc SOS's prices are too damn high!)
Will the stock diverter valve be efficient enough for 12-14psi? Or is it a good idea to go ahead and pick up a BOV? (Would probably go with Tial Q)
Open to all suggestions, comments and criticism.
Thanks!
Anyways, I plan on maxing out this blower (Novi1000) on a 3.2" pulley (maybe 3.0" havent decided yet) so I'm hoping to get some input on what all is missing. I'm pretty sure there's just some small things like hardware, isolator bushings and bolts that are missing after checking out the checklist.
I'll obviously be running my AEM 1052 EMS and have a wideband and a serial gauge I'll be running, so the ECM / FPR etc. isnt needed
Heres the pics of the set up so far: (intake filter and air box aren't pictured but I have them)
The oil feed line has a small leak, so I need to replace that.
I'm missing the really long 10x160mm bolt, think it's part #800-4020
plus 3 of the isolator bushings, however I dont know if that includes the rubber piece PLUS the two metal pieces or if those are 3 different pieces all together, considering CTE wants $25 each them, I'm hoping that includes the entire assembly, both metal pieces + the rubber.
I've already got the modified crank pulley so I won't need to swap that out either.
Basically I'm looking for some insight on what little pieces can't be found laying around in a shop or at your local hardware store, and anything big I may have over looked like vacuum lines / hoses etc. The pic of the full kit on the CTE website is possibly the smallest picture ever taken, so it isn't much help.
Also, for the high boost set up, I plan on running a walbro 255, 3bar map, ID1k's, ACT HD PP + OEM clutch and am currently looking at larger heat exchangers + a bosch cobra water pump (Ebay, bc SOS's prices are too damn high!)
Will the stock diverter valve be efficient enough for 12-14psi? Or is it a good idea to go ahead and pick up a BOV? (Would probably go with Tial Q)
Open to all suggestions, comments and criticism.
Thanks!
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From: dfw
come to c&c and take a look at my car have the ctsc novi1000 at 7 psi looking at my new injectors and waiting for my new sos tb so i can up the boost with a 3.6'' pulley. i think you are local to me if not pm me i put my kit together also hopefully i can help 
Thread Starter
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 4,289
Likes: 12
So for the oil feed, CTE wants $50 plus shipping for a new line. After looking around, this is what I found. Before I order, can anyone confirm that these are the same? (Or at least will work the same)
This is a picture of my comptech line that leaks, plus what they describe it as on their checklist
And here is what I found on Summit:
This is a picture of my comptech line that leaks, plus what they describe it as on their checklist
And here is what I found on Summit:
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Joined: Jan 2011
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Just make sure that both end connectors on that Summit hose are FEMALE. Looks like it states that one end is -3 straight, and the other -3 90 deg which is correct, and from what I can see in the picture it LOOKS like they are both female connectors. I'd say go for it.
Most of this info will be of my own personal opinion, and reflects what I did on my used CT setup that I purchased then pieced together. Just like S2k maniac, feel free to PM me with any questions along the way, as I recently (May-July of 2012) went through the same thing.
- I went ahead and upgraded to a different BOV. I read mixed opinions on the capabilities of the BPV and info on how recirculating the compressed air could raise IAT's and increase heat soak. I started with a Turbosmart BOV, but moved to the Tial Q. I'm happy with it, though it is a bit loud. This will either require that you have the Tial BOV flange welded onto your aftercooler, or I can hook you up with a slick adapter flange that bolts onto the CT aftercooler. A few other members have my adapter flange design, and there is a thread about it somewhere in the FI section.
- I would recommend going to Autozone and buying several feet of 3/4" hose to replace the aftercooler hoses with, as well as new vacuum hose. It will make for an easier install, cleaner look, and peace of mind that you aren't running with old hose that may have a leak already. You will probably notice on the aftercooler hoses that you have now that there are small rub marks where they were resting against certain surfaces or edges. Be mindful of where those locations are during the install and try to protect your new hoses by wrapping them in electrical tape at any place it will rest on another surface, or work on that surface to smooth it out, etc. These hoses at Autozone are less than a dollar per foot. It is definitely worth it.
- Make sure you have some electrical wire and connectors as well as the relay for the water pump. It looks like you already have four wires on your existing pump, so it must have the relay on it or built in. One wire goes to the under-dash fuse box spade for switched power, so you need enough wire to make it there. CT's instructions are fairly good on wiring this up. If you get a different pump, you will need to buy your own relay (got mine from Autozone) and wire it up again as the new pump will only have two wires coming out of it. There is a wiring diagram on s2ki for the relay setup somewhere.
- I bought my upgraded heat exchanger from siliconeintakes.com (aka frozenboost.com). Hardest part about it was figuring out how to mount the damn thing. I ended up cutting some angle iron brackets at work for it. I made it more complicated than it needed to be. Hopefully you can work out a simpler solution to mounting. If you go the siliconeintakes.com route, you will need to buy some NPT-hose barb connectors. I can give you the parts list that I ordered when you get to this point. Look at doing this upgrade sooner rather than later. That tiny heat exchanger isn't worth a damn. I was getting IAT's of 165 deg F in the summer only running 7 PSI.
- I don't really know where you can buy those isolator bushings from other than CT... sounds like you might just have to bend over and take it on those. I'll try to see if I can find another source today.
- I had to replace all the vac hoses which took a bit to figure out how to route everything from the CT instructions manual. I had to buy a vacuum T fitting as well from Autozone, as one is needed in the vac line setup. If you don't have this vac line T fitting, get one. I bought a box of assorted sizes and found one that worked with the hose I bought.
- You're gonna need some hardware. It may be worthwhile to write down what you need from the CT checklist and go to a hardware store and have someone there help you get the remaining bolts. Take some of the bolts you have with you so they can tell if you need coarse or fine thread (I think most are fine thread). The checklist has bolt size and length listed on it I think. Get grade 8 bolts or better.
- If you need silicone couplers to go between the blower outlet and aftercooler inlet, or aftercooler outlet and throttle body inlet, I bought mine off siliconeintakes.com again, cheapest place I could find them. They are reducers because the aftercooler ports are larger than the blower/throttle body ports. Measure their sizes before buying. I can probably get you my parts list on this too. I also used T-bolt clamps from siliconeintakes.com for these connections. Looks better, holds better, etc.
- Do you have the key stock that fits in your blower pulley keyway? Is it stuck to the shaft coming out of the back of the blower? Make sure you have it.
- Buy Honda item number 15825-PCX-015 from your local dealer, this is the VTEC solenoid gasket. Not sure if your kit still has this, but you need one between the VTEC solenoid and the new mounting block, as well as between the mounting block and the cylinder head. You already have one on your car right now; you just need another after you add in that mounting block. Its only like 10 bucks. Its item number 14 in this chart: http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...=CYLINDER+HEAD
- Spend the few extra bucks and go for an Aeromotoive or Full Blown fuel pump (what are they, 320 LPH?). I have a Walbro 255 and will be changing to Aeromotive, mainly in an attempt to solve the whine associated with the Walbro. All your other parts planned for your high boost setup are solid.
That's all I can think of for right now... Like I said if you have any questions just PM me and let me know. I'll help in any way I can. Good luck dude. Its gonna be a bit of a slow process, but you'll get there.
Most of this info will be of my own personal opinion, and reflects what I did on my used CT setup that I purchased then pieced together. Just like S2k maniac, feel free to PM me with any questions along the way, as I recently (May-July of 2012) went through the same thing.
- I went ahead and upgraded to a different BOV. I read mixed opinions on the capabilities of the BPV and info on how recirculating the compressed air could raise IAT's and increase heat soak. I started with a Turbosmart BOV, but moved to the Tial Q. I'm happy with it, though it is a bit loud. This will either require that you have the Tial BOV flange welded onto your aftercooler, or I can hook you up with a slick adapter flange that bolts onto the CT aftercooler. A few other members have my adapter flange design, and there is a thread about it somewhere in the FI section.
- I would recommend going to Autozone and buying several feet of 3/4" hose to replace the aftercooler hoses with, as well as new vacuum hose. It will make for an easier install, cleaner look, and peace of mind that you aren't running with old hose that may have a leak already. You will probably notice on the aftercooler hoses that you have now that there are small rub marks where they were resting against certain surfaces or edges. Be mindful of where those locations are during the install and try to protect your new hoses by wrapping them in electrical tape at any place it will rest on another surface, or work on that surface to smooth it out, etc. These hoses at Autozone are less than a dollar per foot. It is definitely worth it.
- Make sure you have some electrical wire and connectors as well as the relay for the water pump. It looks like you already have four wires on your existing pump, so it must have the relay on it or built in. One wire goes to the under-dash fuse box spade for switched power, so you need enough wire to make it there. CT's instructions are fairly good on wiring this up. If you get a different pump, you will need to buy your own relay (got mine from Autozone) and wire it up again as the new pump will only have two wires coming out of it. There is a wiring diagram on s2ki for the relay setup somewhere.
- I bought my upgraded heat exchanger from siliconeintakes.com (aka frozenboost.com). Hardest part about it was figuring out how to mount the damn thing. I ended up cutting some angle iron brackets at work for it. I made it more complicated than it needed to be. Hopefully you can work out a simpler solution to mounting. If you go the siliconeintakes.com route, you will need to buy some NPT-hose barb connectors. I can give you the parts list that I ordered when you get to this point. Look at doing this upgrade sooner rather than later. That tiny heat exchanger isn't worth a damn. I was getting IAT's of 165 deg F in the summer only running 7 PSI.
- I don't really know where you can buy those isolator bushings from other than CT... sounds like you might just have to bend over and take it on those. I'll try to see if I can find another source today.
- I had to replace all the vac hoses which took a bit to figure out how to route everything from the CT instructions manual. I had to buy a vacuum T fitting as well from Autozone, as one is needed in the vac line setup. If you don't have this vac line T fitting, get one. I bought a box of assorted sizes and found one that worked with the hose I bought.
- You're gonna need some hardware. It may be worthwhile to write down what you need from the CT checklist and go to a hardware store and have someone there help you get the remaining bolts. Take some of the bolts you have with you so they can tell if you need coarse or fine thread (I think most are fine thread). The checklist has bolt size and length listed on it I think. Get grade 8 bolts or better.
- If you need silicone couplers to go between the blower outlet and aftercooler inlet, or aftercooler outlet and throttle body inlet, I bought mine off siliconeintakes.com again, cheapest place I could find them. They are reducers because the aftercooler ports are larger than the blower/throttle body ports. Measure their sizes before buying. I can probably get you my parts list on this too. I also used T-bolt clamps from siliconeintakes.com for these connections. Looks better, holds better, etc.
- Do you have the key stock that fits in your blower pulley keyway? Is it stuck to the shaft coming out of the back of the blower? Make sure you have it.
- Buy Honda item number 15825-PCX-015 from your local dealer, this is the VTEC solenoid gasket. Not sure if your kit still has this, but you need one between the VTEC solenoid and the new mounting block, as well as between the mounting block and the cylinder head. You already have one on your car right now; you just need another after you add in that mounting block. Its only like 10 bucks. Its item number 14 in this chart: http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/...=CYLINDER+HEAD
- Spend the few extra bucks and go for an Aeromotoive or Full Blown fuel pump (what are they, 320 LPH?). I have a Walbro 255 and will be changing to Aeromotive, mainly in an attempt to solve the whine associated with the Walbro. All your other parts planned for your high boost setup are solid.
That's all I can think of for right now... Like I said if you have any questions just PM me and let me know. I'll help in any way I can. Good luck dude. Its gonna be a bit of a slow process, but you'll get there.
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Joined: Dec 2007
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Anyone know what this is called and where I could get another one? Right side is where oil feed connects to the Novi1000 supercharger the gold part screws into the S/C housing itself. http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e5...ps66e8f6ed.jpg
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Right side (silver) just looks like an NPT to -AN adapter. Not sure on the left side... might have to call Paxton for that one. I bet they sell it as a spare part. They should be able to tell you what size the NPT side of the silver adapter should be, and you know what -AN size the other side is from ordering that replacement oil feed hose. Summit should sell that silver adapter once you figure out the NPT and -AN sizes, just search it.
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