TCT or Scuffed Bore?
Hey guys I was out doing some fine tuning of my EBC and when I came to a stop I heard a "Baseball card in spoke" type of noise. As soon as I gave it some gas it went away but it is pretty loud, I mean I can notice it from in my car. I just filled up the oil, so there is plenty of OIL, I was running the car fairly hard, but not to REDLINE and I red a while back how SoulCoughing had Scuffed his bores. I know he has an AP1 so maybe that is the problem, but I dunno.
I was running mid 11's at the very leanest so I dont think I "blew something" doing WOT runs
Anyway what do you guys think?
I saw a DIY for TCT the only thing that scares me is if all the little pieces come out when I pull off the old TCT
Help?
ALSO Witht he Greddy PROFEC Elec Boost controller it says I am at 11.8 PSI when I am steady WOT, but when I release the gas it shows my last BOOST as like 12.3-12.5 it usually always reads .5PSI higher? DO I believe that or the real-time gauage?
Also what do you guys think is more accurate the Greddy Digital read out or the Autometer Mechanical gauge?
I was running mid 11's at the very leanest so I dont think I "blew something" doing WOT runs
Anyway what do you guys think?
I saw a DIY for TCT the only thing that scares me is if all the little pieces come out when I pull off the old TCT
Help?
ALSO Witht he Greddy PROFEC Elec Boost controller it says I am at 11.8 PSI when I am steady WOT, but when I release the gas it shows my last BOOST as like 12.3-12.5 it usually always reads .5PSI higher? DO I believe that or the real-time gauage?
Also what do you guys think is more accurate the Greddy Digital read out or the Autometer Mechanical gauge?
Originally Posted by JoeyBalls,Apr 3 2009, 08:07 PM
this is exactly how it sounds so I guess its the TCT, I will change the OIL 1st thing tomorow morning and I guess order a new one, install looks easy
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Got to replace mine. When you do it, it helps to have the valve cover open, so you can "grab" the end of the tensioner with an open wrench, to keep it from spinning/re-engaging when working the bolt/lock nut. If it spins or shakes too much while you are counter-rotating the nut to lock it, the spring will re-engage, and you will have to start again.
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Got to replace mine. When you do it, it helps to have the valve cover open, so you can "grab" the end of the tensioner with an open wrench, to keep it from spinning/re-engaging when working the bolt/lock nut. If it spins or shakes too much while you are counter-rotating the nut to lock it, the spring will re-engage, and you will have to start again.
John







