Tial QRJ
Joined: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,677
Likes: 9
If you're heart-set on powdercoating, strip off all the existing powder and recoat the entire box.
Personally, I would just spray paint. Check out the VHT engine enamel paint, specifically p/n #SP139 GM Satin Black. It looks very close to the black powder coat and is available at your local auto stores.
SP139 GM Satin Black
http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/engineenamel/
Personally, I would just spray paint. Check out the VHT engine enamel paint, specifically p/n #SP139 GM Satin Black. It looks very close to the black powder coat and is available at your local auto stores.
SP139 GM Satin Black
http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/engineenamel/
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 22,143
Likes: 2
From: 949
SOS said that box is $795, don't want to be it out of my possession and longer than needed.
Years ago friends started powder coating their race jet ski engines, then they all over heated. Went back to paint
and no more problems.
Autozone $7 and instock, thanks 99SH
Years ago friends started powder coating their race jet ski engines, then they all over heated. Went back to paint
and no more problems.
Autozone $7 and instock, thanks 99SH
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,624
Likes: 10
Picturepro - As far as I can tell, you have the inlet and outlet of the BOV swapped. The inlet of the BOV is the port that is directly opposite the vacuum nipple and is inline with the actuation of the internal cylinder. The outlet of the BOV is located on the "side" of the BOV and is oriented 90 degrees from the actuation of the internal cylinder. Remove and swap your inlet flange and outlet diffuser.
Additionally, I don't see the benefit of the outlet diffuser cone. I would be very surprised to hear a difference in sound with that cone on versus off. It does look cool though!
Additionally, I don't see the benefit of the outlet diffuser cone. I would be very surprised to hear a difference in sound with that cone on versus off. It does look cool though!
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 22,143
Likes: 2
From: 949
Picturepro - As far as I can tell, you have the inlet and outlet of the BOV swapped. The inlet of the BOV is the port that is directly opposite the vacuum nipple and is inline with the actuation of the internal cylinder. The outlet of the BOV is located on the "side" of the BOV and is oriented 90 degrees from the actuation of the internal cylinder. Remove and swap your inlet flange and outlet diffuser.
Additionally, I don't see the benefit of the outlet diffuser cone. I would be very surprised to hear a difference in sound with that cone on versus off. It does look cool though!
Additionally, I don't see the benefit of the outlet diffuser cone. I would be very surprised to hear a difference in sound with that cone on versus off. It does look cool though!
it should work as pictured. QRJ VB IN, DIFF OUT
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 4,624
Likes: 10
I must not understand how this model works as opposed to the Q/QR then...
Does the internal of the BOV not have a linear cylinder in it like the Q/QR does? Care to show a picture pointing the camera down into both ports?
Thanks for the drawing too, I'm sure that will help many decide whether this will fit into their space constraints.
Does the internal of the BOV not have a linear cylinder in it like the Q/QR does? Care to show a picture pointing the camera down into both ports?
Thanks for the drawing too, I'm sure that will help many decide whether this will fit into their space constraints.
Joined: May 2012
Posts: 4,252
Likes: 3
From: SOMD
It could have the same "valve" action as a regular BOV but instead this unit see's pressure inside it housing and the valve opens at the bottom releasing pressure that way. That is the way the PDF diagram shows it.
And I say keep the cone because it looks cool
And I say keep the cone because it looks cool
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 22,143
Likes: 2
From: 949
I finally got a hold of Tial technical. They said it enters in the side and blows out the bottom as posted in the PDF
Tial is sending me a new 1.5 lb spring he said that would work best for a supercharge application opposed to the 3 lb spring
the kits came with.
He did say QRJ flows more than the QR, bc its going in at 50mm and coning down to become "R" recirculating
1". The QRJ in 38mm in and 38mm out. The Q flows the most but you will have the blow off noise during constant speed's or shifting.
I'm going to wait until I receive the newest 1.5lb spring next week to tear apart my system
As for the weld flange, it was meant to be welded to a pipe, I'll grind some of the 1/2 moon, it serves no purpose of a SOS cooler
Tial is sending me a new 1.5 lb spring he said that would work best for a supercharge application opposed to the 3 lb spring
the kits came with.
He did say QRJ flows more than the QR, bc its going in at 50mm and coning down to become "R" recirculating
1". The QRJ in 38mm in and 38mm out. The Q flows the most but you will have the blow off noise during constant speed's or shifting.
I'm going to wait until I receive the newest 1.5lb spring next week to tear apart my system
As for the weld flange, it was meant to be welded to a pipe, I'll grind some of the 1/2 moon, it serves no purpose of a SOS cooler
Registered User
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 794
Likes: 1
In for sound clips! My Q is obnoxiously loud.
Bummer that this has a side inlet instead of bottom. I have 90" bend welded on my aftercooler which makes the Q that is currently installed, sit upright. The QRJ would have to sit on it's side for me.
Bummer that this has a side inlet instead of bottom. I have 90" bend welded on my aftercooler which makes the Q that is currently installed, sit upright. The QRJ would have to sit on it's side for me.