I just picked up an s2000 with a precision turbo kit. It has at minimum a blow headgasket. the setup is 14psi, on a bone stock motor. the previous owner told me the dyno results after the build were 468/309.. or something close to it. So it's laying out a good amount of power to be completely stock. So, time for some upgrades.. however, i am on a budget here. I'm new to the s2000 side of honda's, so i'm relying on suggestions from experience. The turbo itself has only been on the car for 3,000 miles or so. I'm not sure if any ring/ringland damage has occured, so i won't know until i begin my teardown. Assuming the block is ok, i want to keep the stock block setup. MY GOAL: i want to TRY and keep running at 14psi and stay around 475hp. However its been proven the stock engine can't handle that. I'm getting ARP headstuds for sure, but with those studs can i keep a stock headgasket? Or at 14psi regardless do i need to step up to thicker headgasket like InLine Pro sells? I see the lower compression being a positive, but i see a thicker headgasket asking for trouble. I also plan to rebuild the valvetrain (and keeping it standard) using SuperTech dished valves, valve seals, and springs/retainers.. smart idea? I've never built on a motor with this kind of power, so i need some input. if what i'm asking for is impossible, i'll tune it down a bit and leave everything stock. again i don't have $10k laying around to throw into this thing. I'm at about $1500 in parts with what i've listed and a catch can system, my budget is about $2500. thanks for the help!

 

First, welcome to the S2000 world! It's going to change your life, for better or worst... The s2000 engine has shown to be able to handle and produce over 500 HP reliably, it's the transmission and differential that tend to give out first. If your current setup really put down 468/309 with a stock engine, I recommend getting sleeve inserts put in (dry sleeves) which will run around 5-600 in parts and machining. Keep the bore 87mm, and get some stock compression pistons. You can reuse the stock rods if you don't want to spend the money for a new set but definitely replace the rod bolts. This will essentially give you a fresh stock spec shortblock with iron liner sleeves and forged aftermarket pistons. As for the head, if it's a low mileage head, get it inspected for valve stem play and clearances and if everything checks out just get it cleaned up with some fresh seals and ap2 retainers/ keepers. Now you have a fresh stock spec head and fresk shortblock. Get a stock headgasket and whatever head bolts you want to use (new stock or ARP's) and now you have an almost completely new stock spec engine with the exception of the used valves, guides, cams, oil pump, blah blah blah. But essentially you have a "new" engine so that nothing else has to be done to the setup, just drop it in and go (assuming the tune was good and really put down the claimed numbers). As far as a budget-friendly rebuild goes, I think this is your best route. Good luck and don't forget to make a build thread!

 

thanks! i've seen the engine can handle the 500+ i just mean that clearly mine didn't. so something has to change. i really want to stay away from sleeves/machine work. i don't trust any machinists in my area with a car like this. flattening out the head is the only machine work i'm doing. so in light of that getting aftermarket pistons is out as well. i know the block can handle it, its the headgasket/valvetrain i'm worried about. if i can run 14psi on a OEM headgasket, ARP studs, upgrade the valvetrain and crankcase ventilation system and still run 14psi relatively reliably then thats my preferred path. if i can't, then i'll tune it down. or if i have to run a thicker headgasket to make the compression lower in able to make those numbers, then i'll do that. i wasn't sure what components from the ap2 carried into the ap1. if i can run oem parts from the ap2 in the valvetrain and not have to worry about the valves floating then thats great, and cheaper. if it takes better equipment then i can invest in the head. its not a low mileage head though, it has 136,000 on it. the tune seems to have done well, the car runs like a champ. its tuned with an AEM v1 unit.

 

Do you mind listing your turbo setup or PM me?

 

I have a built head ready to drop on if you need it

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Only recomendation is ditch the arp stud idea and get a set of the full blown ones.

 

if its just a blown hg then you dont need new sleeves and pistons, throw a set of arps or fbm head studs in there with a fresh oem gasket and your good to go

 

Where has it been proven the stock engine can't handle 475hp?

Definitely stay away from a thicker head gasket!

 

I just mean proven in the fact I'm running near 475 and have a blown headgasket .. like i said i know the internals can hold it, but if the headgasket is going to be the weak link then i need to makes changes. The turbo has only been on for 3,000 miles. I can't afford to be replacing it every 3,000 miles. The more i research the more i see thicker headgaskets are a bad idea. But does a set of head studs really make that much difference that i can still use the oem headgasket? 14psi on 11:1 compression is pretty ridiculous. Maybe i just don't understand the true strength of these motors... I'll list what i know of the setup when i get home

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