I will play with the TPS some this evening and see if an adjustment does the trick. I did see the cheapest place for the OmniPower is Ebay if I had to go that route but read some question its longevity.

 

Its all good. I was getting a code for too low voltage but had it set correctly as far as I could tell. Then I switched multimeters to my cheap needle meter from my friends fancy digital and got different readings. I repositioned the sensor using my meter and drove for about ten miles without issue.

The closed voltage was reading ~.28 with the digital but barely registering above 0 with my crappy needle meter. I adjusted to just under .5 volts closed on my meter (hard to tell exactly where .3 volts is with the needle) and tightened it down. When I opened fully it was somewhere near 4.5 and it ran just fine. No cel. I used the digital meter on the original install and it was probably too low to begin with then too.

PS to Mark,

With my new oil pressure/cam angle sensor in I was not able to tell if vtec was at 4 or at 6k. Too much traffic and not enough room to do a decent pull without hitting somebody. Gonna figure that out another day.

I passed on the tune this month to get a Fujitsubo, which should be here in the next week. Then post up tune and dyno sheet in August.

 

with the exhaust the A/F should get a little leaner (not lean enough to be worrisome) with the auto tune it will correct the A/F back into the 11.8 to 12.0 A/F.

I hooked up the laptop for the first time in 6 to 8 months.

Only other times I plug in the laptop is to update SW and usually do not need check anything since everything has always performed as expected.

Noticed some interesting things with the A/F feed back

Here is the email I sent off to Greddy

[QUOTE]


I have been using the ULT ever since it came out many years a go( even when Greddy said it would not work)

 

did you ever check the harness to see if Boomslang forgot to wire it in or wired it incorrectley

 

Interesting find on the EMU.

I think it is still at 6k for the crossover. Gonna have to sit down and figure it out. I don't know what the correct wiring of the boomslang SHOULD be, so I would not know if it is wired correctly.

 

https://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.ph...f=148&t=408667

Check out this thread. It has the pinouts on the engine harness.

After you read through this with the ULT install manual in hand I can walk you thought over the phone how to check the harness in about 10 mins.

Also check the jumper settings again.

IF they are wrong usually you would get a vtec CEL but it never hurts to check something as simple as a jumper setting again.




And as another check you did say you had the "Auxiliary Output Settings" map turned on.


The transition is very smooth when at full boost and you may be switching over but you just can not feel it.

Any RPM below 6k it is going to take a throttle position above 60% to get vtec to turn on.

Go into a hi gear say 5 or 4th. Bring the RPMS up to just under 4 and then slowly roll the throttle past the 60% mentioned before you should feel it change over. Like wise when you throttle town ( before hitting 6k) but still in the 4 to 6k range you should feel it turn off.


When doing full throttle runs and when shifting so that the rpms never drop below 6k vtec stays active and never turns off until you reach speed and you lift on the throttle and your RPMS are below 6 k.


This is to prevent unnecessary wear and tear on the vtec system during hi speed shifting or tracking. This is how the factory designed vtec to work: once on during spirited driving it does not turn off until speed and throttle are stabilized.

 

Greddys response so far

[QUOTE]Thank you for your interest in Greddy Products.