I've been researching this forum for a while looking at turbo and supercharger kits. I have a few questions for those of you who know better than I do?


1. Log vs tubular exhaust manifold. My understanding is that a tubular manifold is capable of producing more power than a log manifold at any given boost level (10 psi tubular > 10psi log). Where is this "boost" measured at? If it were measured downstream from the exhaust manifold, this would already account for the inefficiency of the manifold, theoretically giving equal power for equal amounts of boost. What am I missing here?

2. Boost vs Engine stress. If I'm looking to reduce stress on the engine, for maximum drivetrain longevity and engine life, lower boost is preferable, right? If this is the case, shouldn't a tubular manifold result in a more reliable long term solution vs a log manifold?

3. Ball bearing vs journal bearing turbo. From what I understand, ball bearing turbos spool faster and are more efficient, but are very expensive to rebuild. What is the long term durability of journal bearing turbos is low-mid boost applications. What do most OEMs use? I know it's fairly common for an OEM turbo to last 150k miles or better when taken care of, this is why I ask.

4. At what power levels do stuff start breaking? I know you can break the diff on stock power if you abuse it enough, but shouldn't it be ok for 400whp or so if you go easy on the shifts? How about aggressive pulls from a roll with 400whp? Most all of the broken diff reports I've seen where people have broken them "from a roll" have occured at 500whp+.

5. Are there any turbo setups as reliable for DD purposes at supercharger setups? I know Supercharger kits are simpler than turbo kits, so they have that in their favor. Are there any turbo kits that are as reliable as an average supercharger kit? I'm willing to pay a little more money to do things "right" and I'm not settled on one over the other. I just don't want to have to worry about my car breaking down at the time. I have a second car I can DD if necessary.

My goal is to basically get the most fun with the least amount of long term headache. Any else I should be thinking about?

 

If you'd like to shoot me an email I can probably answer any questions you may have - regarding going turbo in general or our PTUNING turbo system.

-O'Brien@PTUNING

 

Would there be any objections to answering the questions publicly so everyone could benefit? The Ptuning kit looks great, I'm just weighing my options at this point - which would include other kits as well.

 

Not a problem at all! I'll let Toan chime in here with his wisdom

-O'Brien@PTUNING

 

go p tuning, most complete no hassle kit out there, very well made too

 

1. Go Ptuning

2. Go Ptuning

3. Go Ptuning

4. Go Ptuning

5. Go Ptuning

All questions answered and I've saved you time. If you think of anything else to ask, see answers 1-5.

 

Yes tubular will make more power at the same psi. Is capable of making a lot more power "safer"

IMO both will be as reliable as you make it. With a good quality tune and a solid setup and maint. you will be reliable either manifold you go with. I'm on the Full blown log going on my 3rd season with no issues at 511whp/355wtq

You can start breaking at any power level. 300/400/500/600+. Some are fortunate some aren't. I baby my car 1-2 gears but pretty hard on it other wise and *knock on wood* trans/diff is still perfectly fine. I've seen and heard of people breaking at stock power, and then I've heard of guys running high hp cars on the drag strip and being fine. But IMO the diff is just a ticking time bomb when putting that much abuse on it at the track or even on the street for that matter.

Any turbo setup is going to be as reliable as you make it and maintain it. Same goes for a SC setup. Shit can happen either way and just depends on you and your tuner.

Good luck and enjoy it. boost has been totally worth it for me but I feel like I've been one of the luckier ones.

 

Answering your questions in order:

1. Boost is measured as pressure in the intake manifold. Boost is a measurement of the restriction of the motor, so if a tubular flows better than a log manifold it means more air is moving through the motor.

2. Theoretically, yes, lower boost helps increase longevity. Lower boost usually means lower cylinder temps, which quite often cause the most damage. A good efficient turbo will help keep temps down while making power.

3. Not all bearings are created equally. Ball bearings handle multi-directional loads better than thrust (journal) bearings. Ball bearing turbos will generally spool a bit quicker, but its not always noticeable. The style you choose should depend on budget, size of the turbo, and how hard you plan to push it.

4. 400whp seems to be a safe bet. Others here have more experience with breaking parts of their drivetrain, so I will defer to them to answer.

5. Plenty of guys DD their cars and have minimal issues. Tuning, drivetrain, and fuel systems are usually the weak links. If you find a good tuner, address the clutch, injectors, and fuel pump, and you should do fine.

Anything else, just ask.

 

From my experience with the vehicle as a road and road track versus drag track guy, I would in the strongest terms possible advise against turbocharging. As Blackey has suggested in the past supercharging is the way to go if you're going to be using the vehicle hard for extended periods or if you simply want a more troublefree ownership experience. In particular, had I the funds to do so, I would remove the low miles InLine Pro set-up I have and take a relatively minor hp step down to a Stage One Tuning (again in agreement with him) or whatever they are being called these days. Barring the availability of that system, going to some other @400RWP system. We have completely reworked the current system and it is relaible but I would NEVER have gone this route had the vehicle not come so equipped and I stuck myself.

I would strongly advise the following mods in conjunction with any such drastic power mods:

1. InLine Pro DSS Nissan diff, driveshaft and axle kit - don't skimp either!

2. High capacity radiator - using dual pass Koyo

3. High performance clutch - babied the ACT Comp that came with it and it still slips at anything over 55 in 3rd+ - going twin Carbonetic and also going to carry them so impressed. Multidiscs are easier on the driveline.

4. High performance motor mounts - went red Innovative and the trans mount too which is UNBELIEVABLE!!

5. Brakes - at least upgrade the rear disc and pads better yet front BBK

6. Suspension - at least go KONIs or better yet quality coilovers say GC, Moton or even KW but do avoid the Asian crap. Also irrespective of what people say - FIX the rear roll or bumpsteer whatever you care to term it - it is real (AP1 more/AP2 less but real); driving around it is BS in my opinion and magnified with this level of power.

7. Limit boost especially through 2nd gear which many are breaking!!

Result is pretty unique. The only thing that I can compare driving the car to is a formula car or DSR in that it has virtually no torque and tonnes of hp - sorta mindblowing and unique experience. It is cool but makes the car even more requiring of attention to drive. Not sure how this vehicle ever got a rep as chick's car - it is one of the rawest driving experiences I have ever had in a post mid 90s car and even then old 911.

These are my recommendations learning the hard way and had I not the resources available in terms of expertise the experience would have been a disaster, be warned. Feel free to call or email if you want would hate to see you make a bad decision you'll regret.

 

If done right, you can turbocharge an S2000 for track (Road Course), HPDE use. Our ultra low-mount turbo does not have the heat related issues that most other set-ups do.

Here's one of our customers with our S2K Turbo System featuring a GT30R and making 422whp on our Dyno Dynamics dyno. It runs about 13psi and is tuned on 93 pump gas. This non-DBW AP2 S2K uses a KPro and is therefore OBD2 compliant as well. This is a true street driven car so the power you hear is through the air filter and out the exhaust tips with a recirculated WG dumptube. This is a full weight street car with fully functioning A/C, etc. The powerband on this car is amazing for street and track use. It features our optional oil cooling system too for track duty.

So yes, you can have your cake and eat it too.

Here's a clip of a 10 minute HPDE session. Oil and water temps remained in check during the entire run.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mXQf4...eature=related