I used my turbo s2k at 400hp on 92 for about 6 months while I was trying to keep my debt low so I could buy a house. I will say the only real reason I stopped was because I didn't like to daily the S. I didn't stop because it was boosted. Now that I'm at 700hp, I'll drive it to work and back home as long as it's nice out without question. There is always something small happening but it's always minor and i'm typically prepared for it. But if it was my only vehicle, it would make me alot more nervous.

 

Actually if you don't adjust them with enough free play they will add vibration. That's not their purpose. The purpose is to limit engine twist from high trq applications. Most NA or Supercharged applications don't suffer enough from this symptom to warrant one. I played around with one for a wile and decided it wasn't adding much, but rather compromising the front tie bar hand rest I wanted to run instead.

 

Correct. SOS supercharger to be more exact. CT-Engineering as well although there bracket design change seems a little convoluted in comparison, but Smog legal. SOS all the way though if smog not required. If you want a reliable DD boosted car of course the stage 1 kit is going to be the most reliable long term. Once outside of that your getting into replacing your ECU with a programmable EMS which your tuner reliant, so that opens up another can of worms/variables to contend with, and then the higher up in power the more chance of drivetrain breakage. 350-400whp SC with a good no fuse tune can last a long time in good hands however. After 6-7 years of being supercharged and about 150k miles at all stages of the game, 3 rear ends, 3 trans and 4 motors later I just gave up and went back to NA. It was nice running around with 450whp or even 350whp. But I just got tired of surprise failures and rather keep the car and enjoy NA as a street/road course demon, then a broke SC garage queen with my empty wallet. I couldn't imagine trying to put the miles on a turbo car without total frustration and putting me in the poor house.

 

Well, between my 6 puck clutch and my occasional (rare) jumpy shifts or stop light rolls I definitely think it should help somewhat. I'll have to make sure (as you pointed out) that it's installed with the correct amount of free play and angle though.

 

I DD my turbo AP2 with over 100k on the odometer. Granted it's only a Greddy kit but I'm satisfied and I'm not looking to break any land speed records. The only problem so far is the hardware connecting the snail to the manifold keeps backing out but I consider that minor in the grand scheme of things.

 

Have you tried using Nordlock washers? Seems like that works pretty well for most people.

I also think the allen/hex socket head bolts are slightly less likely to back out as well than standard bolts. You can pick them up cheap at Home Depot.

 

Funny you mention the Nordlock washers. I just put some in this weekend along with some high temp thread locker so hopefully this solves my problem. I wish I could use bolts instead of studs but there's almost no clearance between the turbo and manifold flange, I could barely get a nut in there. We'll see how it goes, last resort will be to weld the turbo to the manifold lol.

 

Possible? Definitely. Do most people do it the 'right' way? Not that I have seen. Most people ignore thermal management issues; i.e. having extremely hot exhaust bits next to things that can't take much heat (getting rid of the factor header heat shield and not replacing it with some to protect the fuse boxes, battery, A/C line, VTEC solenoid, motor mount, etc). The cooling system should also be upgraded (radiator, oil cooler, vented hood). The front opening of the bumper is sized for enough airflow for a 240hp engine. Guess what happens when you try to make double the power? The front opening isn't really big enough anymore for sustained power. Look at any turbo car from the factory (Evo, STI, BMW, Focus ST, GTR, 911 Turbo) and they all have a clean airstream to the radiator separate from the airflow going to the intercooler. Sure, quick bursts up and down the street should be no problem, but not keeping your foot in it for any sustained amount of time. Plus people stuff massive intercoolers taking up the entire opening which of course reduces airflow (and adds hotter air on top of that) to the radiator, etc. Many people also try to cheap out on components. Instead of using braided stainless oil lines, they'll use rubber, stuff like that.

So can you turbo a S2000 and make it reliable? Of course. But it's not easy and most people don't spend the money to do it right.

 

Buy quality parts. Heat wrap all the things. Oil cooler. VMount or SPAL Extremes. Built rear end. Good tune.

 

I don't work on my car other than the basics. I would of never even gone turbo if I didn't know someone who i trust 100% to work on my car. Labor alone from a shop would of cost me $8k for them to install my turbo kit. I got lucky and through Autocrossing with my local car club found someone who knows how to pretty much fix anything on a car. We agreed on a deal for him to work on my car, and volia!!! I supplied all the parts for the car and he installed them. About 3 months later......bam!! 526whp/358wtq!! I wanted the best of the best parts for reliability. He did a lot of extra miscellaneous things to make the car even more reliable. Safety wire the turbo bolts/relocated fusebox,battery etc.

My point is...if you don't do the work yourself or have a ton of money for the up keeping or know someone who you trust to work on your car for less than shop rates, it's going to be tough.