The car this was on had the stock oil cooler/warmer removed. It also used a C&R radiator with a internal oil cooler in the radiator's end tank.

The hardline to the stock cooler/warmer is plugged.

 

I am probably going to get a Bosch water pump, and run a closed coolant loop from the lower radiator hose supply, through the turbo, returning to the top radiator hose. I am keeping my stock oil cooler or now... I do not plan on heavily tracking the car, so it will probably be fine.

Another question: Even if the drain line is above the level of the turbo colant drain, wouldn't the coolant that is still in the lines upon shutdown be sucked back into the reservoir (assuming there is no air in the system) upon thermal contraction? I really do not want any coolant just "sitting" in the turbo once its shut off...

Is there any problem with the coolant supply coming in to the lower of the two coolant ports, and "draining" out the higher of the two ports on the turbo (its pressurized via the water pump when running, so gravity should not matter when running)? It would be working against gravity when pumping (assuming the top adiator hose is the return point), but would provide a constant downhill flow back through the turbo once the pump is shut down... I have my coolant supply coming in the higher of the two coolant ports on the turbo, and draining out the lower one... I thought I read somewhere that the coolant flow through the turbo is bi-directional (not a specific input and drain... just a passage through the turbo).

John

 

Old topic I know... But its a VERY bad idea to run the coolant out from the turbo into the in of the "oil cooler". You have to remember your turbo is around ~1000deg. + so the coolant coming out of the turbo is HOT! When you run it back into the OEM "oil cooler" you are actually going to be heating your oil up, not cooling it down! In reality, the different between oil and coolant temperatures at operating temp is not enough to really effect the temp much, but still, you'll be raising the oil temp if anything using this routing, which is obviously the wrong direction to be going in. In an ideal situation, your oil temp should probably be around 225 +/-10deg. And your coolant around 180-190deg. so when "cooling" your oil with engine coolant, at operating temperature, it probably wont even really effect the oil temp more than a few degrees at the most. As stated above, the OEM oil cooler is actually more effective at bringing the engine oil up to operating temperature quicker, than it is at actually cooling the engine oil down...

The most effective routing for the turbo coolant lines from a theoretical standpoint is to add connections, and run the turbo coolant in its own circuit, as oppose to piggybacking, or T'ing the coolant from somewhere else in the OEM routing. You would want the pull the coolant from the point where it is at its lowest temp, coming out of the bottom of the radiator, and return it directly to the radiator in somehow, as oppose to routing the coolant that was superheated by the turbo back through the engine in any way. This is the most efficient way to cool the turbo anyway...

I am cleaning up my engine bay, and re-routing a number of my coolant lines, turbo oil lines, etc... So I was doing a search to see how other have there turbo oil/coolant lines routed, and came across this thread, figure I'd post my 2cents.

 

Or, u could use an oil filer relocator and then use the stock oil cooler lines for the turbo. I have my oil filter relocated to front crossmember and I do not have any coolant lines to it. It is situated just behind one of my 13" SPAL extreme output fans...

 

That is how mine is done

 

I have redirected the water lines for the cooler to my turbo, remote mounted my oil filter and have a air/oil cooler inline.

 

Yeah that is what I want to add is some kind of oil cooler. I was leaning towards the LAMINOVA cooler. I like that one because it will bring the oil up to temp sooner and you don't have to worry about the oil being too cool. Which from what I have been told can actually be worse.

 

My question is if those coolant lines do any job or not. When the turbine gets really hot will the coolant that goes through the turbine help at all or this will lead to inrease of coolant temperature only?

I have a GT3582R and i haven't connect those coolant lines. On the other hand i do not track the car only do couple of turbine gear sessions.

 

Your correct about that Jacko, engine oil being too cool is actually worse than it running a little hot. The tolerances in the engine, ring gaps, etc... Are set to what they are accounting for thermal expansion of everything with the oil being at a certain temp. However I wouldn't really worry too much about this in our application. Even with an added external oil cooler, and especially if your running a turbo, its highly unlikely that you will have any problems with your oil being too cool. Its mostly a concern in marine applications where the motor uses an open loop cooling system, cooling the engine with lake/ocean water where your coolant is constantly incoming at 80-100deg as oppose to a closed loop system like in an automobile. I Have seen many a brand new engine in a marine application scar the Cyl. walls all to hell from running with a very low oil temp (~160deg, when you want your oil temp more around the ~210 range.)

S2000_Fun, if your running a ball bearing oil/water cooled turbo without the water lines hooked up this is very bad, connect water lines ASAP! You have probably already burnt up the bearings in your turbo if you have been running it like this for any length of time. I found that it did start to overwhelm my OEM radiator when I added the turbo, and had to get an after-market 2-3 row radiator. But it really just depends on how hard you drive it, I have seen lots of people on here running OEM radiators with a turbo kit, just keep an eye on your coolant temps. Correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe in our cars you want your coolant temp around 170-190, if your seeing anything over 210, probably want to consider upgrading the radiator.

 

Not even remotely correct. I've ran my GT3071R without the water lines for the entire time it's been on my car (5k plus miles). The water lines per Garrett are there to cool the turbo as the car is cooling down to prevent the oil from coking around the seals.

Per their website:

You can run the turbo without the water lines no problem, as many have and do. Just remember to let your turbo cool down before turning the car off.