valve adjustment with ferrea valves
Couldn't find any info on valve adjustment's with aftermarket valves, I just had my head rebuilt with ferrea comp plus valves and want to see what valve lash you guys are using. From what I have seen its just oem spec but just wanted to be sure and see if anyone is doing anything different. Thanks
If your running oem cams I would stick with oem lash specs.
Lash clearance is for removing the heat caused by friction from the cams spinning. During the revolution that it's not (pushing down) the oil absorbs heat in-between or the "lash clearance", the cam and roller rocker. Now the two differences between IN and EX are for thermal expansion for one and the two having different lifts and durations. Hope this helps, GL.
Lash clearance is for removing the heat caused by friction from the cams spinning. During the revolution that it's not (pushing down) the oil absorbs heat in-between or the "lash clearance", the cam and roller rocker. Now the two differences between IN and EX are for thermal expansion for one and the two having different lifts and durations. Hope this helps, GL.
I would stick to OEM specs. IMO I would go on the looser end to allow for a little more heat expansion. I would rather hear a slightly loose Vtec motor than "Sewing machine" tight motor. The power difference is un-measurable and it will save your valve seats in the long run.
We see this all the time.
The dealership wants to make the engine as quiet as possible so the customer (Who spent hundreds) feels like the valve adjustment was done correct. A few thousand miles later the car develops mis fire codes and low compression.Guess what ? ... pull the head to fix the problem.
We see this all the time.
The dealership wants to make the engine as quiet as possible so the customer (Who spent hundreds) feels like the valve adjustment was done correct. A few thousand miles later the car develops mis fire codes and low compression.Guess what ? ... pull the head to fix the problem.
I would stick to OEM specs. IMO I would go on the looser end to allow for a little more heat expansion. I would rather hear a slightly loose Vtec motor than "Sewing machine" tight motor. The power difference is un-measurable and it will save your valve seats in the long run.
We see this all the time.
The dealership wants to make the engine as quiet as possible so the customer (Who spent hundreds) feels like the valve adjustment was done correct. A few thousand miles later the car develops mis fire codes and low compression.Guess what ? ... pull the head to fix the problem.
We see this all the time.
The dealership wants to make the engine as quiet as possible so the customer (Who spent hundreds) feels like the valve adjustment was done correct. A few thousand miles later the car develops mis fire codes and low compression.Guess what ? ... pull the head to fix the problem.
A loose valve lash will produce more sound, not the other way around.
My point is tho. In spec they will produce some sound which some compare to a sewing machine to help reassure it's good.
And yes, I said stick with stock spec.
The sewing machine, is just to help compare sounds. Like saying ur not gonna have a perfectly quiet engine and if it is probably a lil tight then if ur concentrating on top end for sound...it is an engine after all spinning metal and exploding inside. Although I once heard that saying for the flat tappet guys. More just wanted to say if u double checked and it sounds couture, it will be good.
My point is tho. In spec they will produce some sound which some compare to a sewing machine to help reassure it's good.
And yes, I said stick with stock spec.
The sewing machine, is just to help compare sounds. Like saying ur not gonna have a perfectly quiet engine and if it is probably a lil tight then if ur concentrating on top end for sound...it is an engine after all spinning metal and exploding inside. Although I once heard that saying for the flat tappet guys. More just wanted to say if u double checked and it sounds couture, it will be good.
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